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Trying a new finish to me.

Baldy

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Graeme
:whistling:
I am not starting a debate or opening a can of worms I hope..

I have just purchased microcrystalyne wax and friction polish and am looking for a how to use this combination as I know at least a few of you use this combination with great success..

My questions are do I use sanding sealer as normal what kind of cloths etc how many coats of each Tec..:nooidea:

Thanks in advance

Graeme
 

rayf6604

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May 1, 2014
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Ray
:whistling:
I am not starting a debate or opening a can of worms I hope..

I have just purchased microcrystalyne wax and friction polish and am looking for a how to use this combination as I know at least a few of you use this combination with great success..

My questions are do I use sanding sealer as normal what kind of cloths etc how many coats of each Tec..:nooidea:

Thanks in advance

Graeme
My method for using this is: apply a coat of cellulose sanding sealer (acrylic version might be fine) and smooth off with 0000 grade wire wool, then with the lathe off apply a coat of the friction polish (i just use industrial bathroom paper towel) then using the part of the towel with the wet polish on it turn the lathe on at about 1000rpm hold the wet part of the towel against the wood using reasonable pressure, moving quickly back and forth until you see the surface turn glossy. There shouldn't be any need to reapply unless there is a patch not covered then just do the same process. Then I rub some of the wax on the wood and repeat the process. Hope that helps. If anyone else has a different method I'd be glad to see it myself.
 

bellringer

The Young one
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Two coat of sanding sealer sand 320 and 400 between coats then friction Polish let it dry for 30 sec then buff put wax on and buff apply all of the finishes with the lathe stopped


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Jim

Grand Master
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Oct 19, 2011
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15,617
Depending on the finish i have after finishing the turning depends on the sanding i do .. I have used both methods of sanding sealer and no sealer, both seem to work fine. A couple of coats of the friction polish, just enough to cover the blank, finish it off with the wax .. :thumbs:
 

Woody

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I never use S/S on pens anything up to 6 coats F/P and as many coats of woodturners stick or more if needed depending on the wood type
 

Baldy

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Thank you all as usual the font of all knowledge..

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Neil

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Sanding sealer is essential on bare wood as otherwise the wood draws the wax out of the shine in time. If you are using the Ss as a sealer rather than a finish I can't see any benefit of putting two or more coats on, and no benefit in sanding it in between coats. As opposed to ss I prefer using ubeaut eee cream as a cleaner and sealer and then one coat of shellawax, thin application of ren wax on completion if you think it really necessary but I've never bothered.
 

Woody

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I have to disagree Neil so do my pens these few are well over 20 years old and were polished with Hut produces and I haven't even give them a quick buff up
DSCF1213.JPG
 

Neil

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Woody,

the pens on the right, I guess came from Axminster before they started charging a mint for their artisan euro, and a lovely kit it is, and the pens are. If you have applied six coats of friction polish as your previous post says, I would suggest that the first couple have done exactly the same as the sealer. My comments were made in the context of the application of a single coat of friction polish which is the maximum I have found necessary after sealing with eee cream. I appreciate that record used to advertise that their friction polish could be put on bare wood, but there are many (not me ive never used it) who disagree with them.
 

Walter

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An interesting thread. So here's my take on it.

I finished my pens with friction polish for many years and whilst I usually used sanding sealer I didn't always do so and I can't say that it made much difference one way or the other. Whatever finish is used the number of coats required will depend on the porosity of the wood and how sparing or heavy handed you are with the application.

Friction polish is just a mix of shellac and wax so what you end up with is much the same as French polish. Like French polish it is hard and resistant to impact damage but less resistant to alcohol, liquids and sweaty fingers. Your pens look great Woody, but if you have kept them in a display box for 20 years it is no surprise that they are still pristine, had they been in regular use I would suggest that some maintenance might have been required over that time. That is not intended as a criticism of either Woody or friction polish, it is just an observation on the long-term wearing ability of friction polish. I have pens that have been in use for twenty years and a quick re-polish every now and then is needed to revive the finish and keep them looking like new. The friction polish often stands up better than the gold plating.

Having said all of that I rarely use friction polish on pens now as I find that a hard finish such as CA, acrylic lacquer or the Drechseln and Mehr satin finish is more robust. What anyone else uses is their concern not mine.

So in summary I don't disagree strongly with either Neil or Woody and I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to whether you need to use sanding sealer under friction polish. On more porous woods it will reduce the number of coats of friction polish required. Even if it brings nothing to the party, it will do no harm and I have yet to experience an occasion when sanding sealer of any type has been incompatible with a friction polish finish.
 

Woody

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Thank you for that Walter I do agree with you on the issue of my pens being is the case as to every day use and yes they would need a freshen up now and then like any old furniture that is why I always tell people how to care for there pen then its up to them what they do with them LOL also I think there is no quick fix with polish it does have to be built up in layers one or two coats is far to little yes it will shine but it wont last especially under use another valid and interesting point you made is the gold plating not lasting as long as the polish
 
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