"Trying to rectify our mistakes"

[Morse]

Rather than hijack Alan's thread on "squaring the end of pen blanks".

Following a disscuion with Phil ( which I'm not tech enabled to copy over Phils reply?)
As we know it is so easy to remove to much of the pen blank end, wether by a disc sander or barrel trimmer.
I thought I'd try to rectify the 1 mm to much I'd taken off by squaring the end (after finding the disc sander bed had dropped from the right angle I'd set) and adding on a lager 3mm extra piece.
I thought as it was a solid colour blank I'd see the join, and if I did I'd bin it.
On turning and polishing I couldn't see any join.
So started to assemble, having thought the nib end was now square so would mate up ok.
Must have put to much pressure on as it just shattered.
It may have worked by being a little more "gentle".

Maybe that is what Phil does with his concave pen ends ?
Have you fellow pen makers got any tips on corrections?

Dave

 

[Penpal]

A few of my aids in one place.

Peter.

 

[Phil Dart]

Have you fellow pen makers got any tips on corrections?

Remove the light bulbs. I've never know any of the pens I've made to look bad in a power cut after dark.

Honestly Dave, I'm not especially careful with my concave ends. I use a standard commercial pen press, which if memory serves I bought from Axminster years ago. It's modified slightly, just to keep the piston stable under pressure, and I just welly the components in. Well, ok, maybe not welly them in, but there isn't a great deal of science or art involved in my case. I think you were just a bit unlucky with your modification, which in theory at least, seems to to me to have been a sensible solution to the problem you had. But the problem you had just illustrates why I still use a trimmer and not a sanding disk.

 

[Woody]

Unlike the old time above I use the disk sander with the fence set square sand gently and listen the sound changes when you hit the tube stop instantly perfect job every time

 

[Morse]

Peter.
My set up is really simple as can be seen in the photo.
A simple “Vee” block using earth magnets that hold the transfer punches of varying diameters.
I Have’t got space or money for the more robust/better tooling, but if I’m careful it works for me.

Phil.
Changing from whiskey ? (or wine) to your local cider will help in not seeing any problems ?.
I bought the PSI assembler/desembeler which has saved a few club members pens.

Really must try to figure out why the photos come out wrong??

 

[Bammer]

Peter.
My set up is really simple as can be seen in the photo.
A simple “Vee” block using earth magnets that hold the transfer punches of varying diameters.
I Have’t got space or money for the more robust/better tooling, but if I’m careful it works for me.

Phil.
Changing from whiskey �� (or wine) to your local cider will help in not seeing any problems ��.
I bought the PSI assembler/desembeler which has saved a few club members pens.

Really must try to figure out why the photos come out wrong����

There is your problem, you are trying to do it sideways ...

 

[Morse]

There is your problem, you are trying to do it sideways ...

I’m blaming the iPhone/iPad

Dave

 

[Frederick]

Peter.
My set up is really simple as can be seen in the photo.
A simple “Vee” block using earth magnets that hold the transfer punches of varying diameters.
I Have’t got space or money for the more robust/better tooling, but if I’m careful it works for me.

Phil.
Changing from whiskey ? (or wine) to your local cider will help in not seeing any problems ?.
I bought the PSI assembler/desembeler which has saved a few club members pens.

Really must try to figure out why the photos come out wrong??

You're not the only one!!