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Turning a closed end pen

rayf6604

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About to have a go at my first closed end Sedona I was about to cut the blank to size for the bottom half when I realised I need to allow extra for the closed end part . Can anyone tell me what is the ideal amount of material to leave beyond the the length of the brass tube to get the best effect for the closed end? :thinks:
 

Woody

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Ideally just over the same size of the normal pen kit you are using that includes the normal end piece as well especially if your doing the same sort of shape but I never go more than about an inch longer than the normal pen unless I am adding a feature to the end
 

Buckeye

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Many thanks for that Woody, I didn't want to leave myself short or go too long, off to have a go but I might not finish it today, see how it goes. :thumbs:

If you are doing a rollerball, you need to make sure you drill to exactly the same depth that there would be if you had the finial on or be prepared to either cut the spring if you haven't drilled far enough or pack out the bottom if you have drilled too far.

Peter
 

Grump

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Surely it depends how long you want the finished product to be.
You could do a bloody snooker cue with a nib at one end and a litter picker at the other.

Did your mandrel maker not make it the length of the tube?
Then add whatever you want to part it off.

I make handle for prestige saucepans the longest being 5 and 1/2 inches.
I stick a 2 foot baton on and turn 4 at a time then drill them afterwards.
Quicker than doing them individually, not relevant I know but my point being allow enough for the chuck plus a bit for rounding and parting off.
 

Buckeye

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Surely it depends how long you want the finished product to be.
You could do a bloody snooker cue with a nib at one end and a litter picker at the other.

Did your mandrel maker not make it the length of the tube?

No, he made it longer than the Omega's tube

Then add whatever you want to part it off.

I make handle for prestige saucepans the longest being 5 and 1/2 inches.
I stick a 2 foot baton on and turn 4 at a time then drill them afterwards.
Quicker than doing them individually, not relevant I know but my point being allow enough for the chuck plus a bit for rounding and parting off.

It's not rocker science and the pdf showed to mark the depth of the drilled hole which should be as long as is needed to take whatever hardware goes inside.

Peter
 

rayf6604

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I managed to do the closed end but I hadn't drilled it deep enough to take the roller ball refill so I had to carefully drill it deeper after I'd finished it and now it's just fine. However, turning the top half a piece of the blank broke off right down to the tube and the edges were too ragged to glue it back so I'll have to redo the top another day. I might try using a diffrent wood. The bottom is laburnum so I was thinking maybe a plain grain like American black walnut would look ok. :thinks:
 

Zman

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Close End ? some like it long :banana::nooidea:
 

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Buckeye

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Where's the photo:camera:

Peter
 
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