turnings tips needed

[hawkeyefxr]

Damn second time of typing this all.

I come from an engineering background and holding the cutting tool is a major no no.

I started making pens last summer and then stopped because i found acrylic to tricky in that it would break out when drilling it or shatter when turning.
Turning hard woods is enjoyable and cuts easily, not so acrylic.

I watched a video today about turning acrylic, first off he used a small gouge and showed the affects of holding the tool at different angles, i have been holding mine at roughly 90 degrees and about 9 am radially to the work piece. I have found tipping the gouge left or right a bit helps with a smoother cut.
He also used a skew, i was surprised at how smooth it cut. His skew was slightly curved at the end where at mine is flat but at a slight angle to the chisel body. He also cur right near the top of the workpiece, or so it appeared.
Also found that acrylic knocks the edge off a chisel real quick. In this department i am lucky in that i have a tormek wet stone which i use for my 10 inch planer blades.

What i am after is advice on how to turn acrylic. Or links to good videos the watch.

 

[Sgreen]

Sorry I can't help much with the answer but looking forward to reading the replies.

I am also new to turning. I have turned acrylics with varying results which manage to produce an end result. I keep the tools sharp and take of a little at a time.

 

[Winemaker]

A few pic's would help. it sounds like you are getting the hang of Acrylics. I found like you sharp tools are a must and the Skew works well.

 

[Buckeye]

Chipout with acrylics is usually associated with blunt tools. I also use a skew and usually cut nearer to the top, I also use it to round a blank from square, it's a great all round tool. I am always looking for another one when they come up cheaply (good quality ones) as I have 3 and can just grab another one when one gets a bit blunt and it's quicker to sharpen 3 at once rather than stop and sharpen just one.

As for drilling drill with the lowest speed and with sharp bits, pulling the bit out every 1/4 inch. if you can't touch the bit end when you pull it out then it's too hot and you should make sure it's sharp and let it cool down.

Peter

 

[fortress]

I'm left handed so My roughing gouge is held at 2 o'clock, riding the bevel, 10 o'clock when going the other way, the skew is held higher cutting at about 45 degrees, I never cut into an end, always run off the end, if you see what I mean. Again very sharp tools and fast rpm' produce clean cuts.

 

[Terry Q]

If you have a belt dander you can knock the corners off first. You can also make a jig that holds the blank to cut corners off with a band saw. John Jordon, professional wood turners always says "the answer to your question is go to the grinder."

 

[Phil Dart]

Hi Ken

With respect to you, your problems with acrylic are not necessarily all to do with the material. You are probably experiencing similar problems with other materials, but as they are more forgiving than acrylic, you may not realise the fact. In other words, if you can improve your tool technique you will probably also improve the results you are getting in all materials, not just acrylics. The only reason I say this is because you describe your gouge approach above, being at 90 degrees and with the flute at 9 o'clock, which is just plain wrong on most materials under most conditions.

My suggestion would be that you invest some time finding out about turning on a wood lathe from first principles, either from books or online tutorials and videos, so that you can learn the proper use and handling of the tools that you are using. You local woodturning club if there is one near you would be a huge source of advice and information too. On top of that, yes, there are special considerations when dealing with specific materials, both in drilling and cutting, but I think a basic grounding in tool presentation and use is possibly a greater benefit to begin with.

We all have to start somewhere, and I have to say that beyond what I learned at school many years ago, which is mostly forgotten, if someone stood me in front of an engineers lathe, I would need to learn from first principles too. so you have a definite advantage over me there.

 

[Jim]

Some sound advice here Ken, i can't add on this but regarding having to type twice, you must tick the box that keeps you logged in .. If you don't it logs you out after 15 minutes ..

 

[Penpal]

The great adventure in Wood Turning is the use of your hands. The care needed is in your hands more than machines. I have a mate who is older than me who still cuts threads etc using hand tools on the metal lathe ex RAAF from ever ago who always worked on Aircraft doing precision work. What fun you have in store for yourself. Look around for a Wood Group go see hands on people. U Tube abounds in turning of all sorts and materials including pens. Let bus know of your progress.

I spent some time yesterday on my Hercus Metal Lathe, quality time making my own mods for a mini lathe. If you follow the forum contributions you will find so many makers of acrylic blanks, how to make your own tools to cut and shape acrylic and timber right up your skills ally. Have fun.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

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[Penpal]

Beaut videos Mark.

Peter.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Beaut videos Mark.

Peter.

Those video were great, many thanks.

There is something i have come upon, I am making a 'European Pen' (as we are not in europe now this maybe wrong lol) Anyhow, on the cap end there is a ring at the bottom which mean i have got to under cut the end to slip the ring on, do i use a parting tool taking very small cur down to the depth i want or use the full with of the tool, about 4mm and go strain in.

hope that makes sense.

 

[fortress]

Use a small parting tool, take it slow, try and get the bushing ring to just slid over the to fit nice and tight on the shoulder Ken.

 

[Buckeye]

I use a skew to make the tenon, just keep fit trying it.

Peter

 

[Penpal]

I use a skew on the flat as a scraper works for me.

Peter.