I dunno... Walter Hall and I used to use CA and boiled linseed oil (BLO) many years ago before some of the 'better' finishes became cheap enough for the small users to afford. and before Micro mesh etc was cheap enough for pen turners.
Basically you start with BLO so as to replace the water evaporation from the wood and to keep it supple for as long as possible; note this only works with open grain wood, (woods like lignum vitae and azobe don't benefit from it) . The first coat applied is BLO which is applied with the lathe at about 1500rpm and buffed across with either a hard paper towel of a soft rag to a shine, then you apply CA as the next coat and do this about 5 times alternating each coat (much more and you end up with a plastic looking coat which is not aesthetic) . The application of each coat should be done fast because the BLO acts to speed up the ca glue drying. You should end up with a nice shiny finish which is neither too glossy nor too matt but which, to the fingers, is dead smooth. I recently was asked to repair one of my pens which had that finish (mechanism bent by mis-assembly after replacing refill) . There was no cracking etc and the finish feeling was just as though it had been made. To be fair the lady had followed my instructions and buffed it with beeswax every 6 months or so, it was made in 2006.
I stopped using the CA finish after I bought the beal buffing system which produces just a good a finish, and doesnt smell as much 
