Yet another question folks

[Garno]

Over the past few days I have been spending money getting in the basics for this 'ere pen making malarkey.
I have ordered 10 drill bits from UK Drills on eBay (Ordered Thursday Night) and the full range of bushes that were/are available from Beaufort Inks (They were ordered last night). I am hoping that everything will be with me by Tuesday.
I plan to make a disposable razor first as I have a kit that was included in the parcel I purchased from [MENTION=626]flexi[/MENTION]
What I would like to know is what would I use as a finish? Whatever I use would need to be waterproof and not react to shaving soap/foam. My first thoughts were sanding sealer followed by x layers of friction polish, my reasoning is that the friction polish contains shellac (I think!!! )
I also do not have bushes does anyone know if pen bushes would work or do I need to turn some?

 

[monophoto]

Traditional friction polish is based on shellac, and the application process is similar to french polishing. However, that would not be my first choice for something that will be exposed to water as frequently as a shaving brush will be. There are alternative formulations that are based on lacquer - those would also not be ideal.

Instead, I would try to find pure Tung oil - its naturally water resistant, and cures to a soft matte finish. Thin the first coat with turpentine so that it penetrates into the wood, and after that cures, apply one or two coats full strength, allowing it to cure for a few days between.

If you want something glossy, I would apply a few coats of polyurethane over the initial application of Tung oil. There are formulations of polyurethane (eg, Zar brand) sold here in the US that claim to be based Tung oil rather than linseed oil; those would be ideal, but a generic poly would be OK if the Tung oil is allowed to cure fully before applying the poly. After the poly cures, buff it and then apply wax.

Ideally, the timber you use should also be water resistant - something like teak would be perfect. In fact, the combination of teak and Tung oil would be excellent and quite attractive. Teak doesn't get a lot of respect, and it's hard to turn because the high silica content dulls tools rapidly, but it can be quite pretty.

Another wood that might be quite qood is a white oak, quercus alba. The fact that its used to make wine and whiskey barrels indicates that is pretty impervious to water, and it also can look nice when oiled.

 

[flexi]

With the razors I have tended to use plywood that has been resin impregnated which has proved durable, I get this from a gunstock manufacturer as off cuts, I polish then apply a couple of coats of melamine..... I know some people use CA, again very durable...... Or just use plastic /acrylic, there's some cracking colours and designs!

As to bushes, you can use anything that fits the tube snug and just turn down using calipers, I use cone shaped bushes and turn lots of different kits on them....

BTW I have a box of laminate off cuts if you want a couple of bits??

 

[Garno]

 

[Bill Mooney]

If you use acrylic/plastic you don’t need to seal it. Just sand it then polish it with T cut or car polish or brasso. I sand to 600 grit then use 0000 wire wool before polishing.
As already said, Teak is a good choice but try & get Burmese Teak as this turns as smooth as silk. Indian Teak is very gritty.

 

[21William]

Anyone used Rustins Plastic coating?

 

[flexi]

I don't keep address, if you could PM me I will pop some in the post

 

[wm460]

What about something like this?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-watson-500ml-spar-marine-varnish_p1561089

 

[Garno]

What about something like this?

Feast Watson 500ml Spar Marine Varnish - Bunnings Australia

A bit expensive for me.

It will be for a one off Christmas gift (Razor and brush) and will be concentrating on bowls and pens then only pens once I have turned enough bowls for the prezzies