Brian's Lathe Build

[Brian Rutter]

Today I started to order some pulleys and belts, my wallet had a nervous breakdown:wink:

So plan B.

Take 12 milk bottles, bake in the oven at 175 DegC for 30 minutes and press into some 2" and 2.1/2" copper pipe.



The idea is to turn the pulleys to make the lathe son I can turn the pulleys.

So I used an electric drill clamped to a piece of scaffolding plank .

You may laugh, but I am so chuffed my socks are jumping up and down. I have never turned anything before and the pulley cost nowt.

I promise I will make a proper one when my lathe is operational.

 

[21William]

Dan Gelbarts scratch built Lathe is on another level!

 

[Penpal]

Skill levels vary so much ,I admire the economic approach and this makes me appreciate the no holds barred,money indifferent.

Peter.

 

[Brian Rutter]

My lathe is not finished yet just wait

I am just on phase 1 pen making capacity - Digital tachometer on order - £7.00

Phase 2, Circular face grinder with digital angle guides and digital inclinometer- digital readout on site Cost £0.00 ( this is a definate )

Phase 3, Compound slide and metal cutting tools ( this is a distinct possibilty )

Phase 4, Mill. ( this is currently a bit of a fantasy, but you never know )

Unfortunatley my supply chain is currently stuffed. The chuck and speed controller I was looking at and were located in the UK suddenly dropped off eBay - I have had to go to a chinese supplier and they are looking at a delivery of about a month.

I have the spindle, taco, and switches etc are arriving in a few days so that will give me something to play with.

 

[Brian Rutter]

I thought I had ordered a chuck from China, but I must have clicked the wrong one and I ordered one from India.

Initially they quoted 3 to 5 Weeks but when I ordered it the had changed to 4 to 6 Weeks. Two days later I got an email to say that the chuck would arrive in 2 DAYS time.

Sure enough it arrived, I ordered a couple of items from the UK at the same time and the chuck from India beat them both, New Dheli - Dubai - France - Newcastle. Airfrieght all the way.



When you buy a lathe you normally get a tool rest free, making your own lathe you loose this bonus. I had a rumage through my realy use box and came up with some old bits of plumbing materials. I like shiny copper but I may decide to paint it, the steel on the top was left over from the stuff I ordered for the spindle, all in all zero additional cost. I love it.

I still need to trim the hieght, I will do this as soon as someone advises me the preferred hieght.:wink:

I had an emergency stop button left over from another project and added that, the screen that you see is for the rev counter I will start to wire that up tomorrow. The chuck is not screwed on I managed to break my very cheap M12 x 1 die and have ordered a replacement which is due on monday.

I also had a spare cooling fan salvaged from a PC so I have added that and it is pointed at where the speed controller will be fitted.



It's coming together.

 

[alan morrison]

Getting there, Brian, and turning out pens soon, no doubt.

 

[Curly]

You're getting there nicely.

You will find eventually that a shorter tool rest will be needed for shorter parts. Having the tool rest closer to the work gives you more control since your tool is supported closer to the piece being turned. The long tool rest will be limited by the tailstock getting in the way.

Pete

 

[Penpal]

You will need a short tool rest for pens to clear the chuck and the tail stock pens are not very thick. Also tool post height needs a good clearance below centre to allow for the carborundum cutters at some time.I only turn half a pen ever at a time.

Peter.

 

[Pierre]

Ditto what they say above about the tool rest, but I also find I move my tool rest quite frequently during a job and I also sometimes have a need to go under the centre line, so you might want to create a system of handles on the nut that stops the tool rest spinning and the nut that allows it to slide back and forth. Also some tools can get held at quite a steep angle and the front part of the copper pipe holding the steel bar looks like it might interfere with that

 

[Brian Rutter]

Thanks for all the comments - duly noted.

I appreciate a smaller rest will be required in time, but when I was visualising this rest I had in mind that one of the first things I would need was some chisels - do turners call them chisels or tools?. On one of my rumaging trips to the £1.00 shop I found a box of rolling pins, they seemed to say to "I wanna be a handle" so I bought 10. I do not know what the wood is but it is very hard. I thought that I could use these to practice cutting, finishing etc. before I started using the expensive stuff. I am still looking for the pointy end of the chisels.

 

[Pierre]

Rolling pins are normally Beech look for tiny flecks like on this box; if they are then it is brilliant wood for tool handles (even fork handles)

 

[Pierre]

Once you do decide on the tooling that you want, I would recommend HSS metal stock, else if you use carbon steel you will be spending all the time just sharpening it. As a minimum you will need a spindle roughing gouge, a skew and a spindle gouge (probably with an Ellsworth grind) to allow it to double as a skew at times. The parting tools and bowl gouges etc can come later.

here's a nice looking set of tools for not too much money 6PCS Wood Turning Tools | in Inverness, Highland | Gumtree

 

[Penpal]

Rolling pins are normally Beech look for tiny flecks like on this box; if they are then it is brilliant wood for tool handles (even fork handles)
View attachment 42797

Needs a matching Budda mate. Just joking love the timber.

Peter.

 

[Brian Rutter]

Yes I have small spots, I think I have ended up with beech rolling pins.

not too much money 6PCS Wood Turning Tools | in Inverness, Highland | Gumtree

Thanks for the link, but those unfortunatly are out of my budget.

I have been thinking about trying to avoid tools that need sharpening - need to buy a grind stone and I do not have the space to put one and it is another skill I will have to learn.

I have the beech for the handles, I have the 12mm EN3B steel for the shafts all I need are the tips. Is there anything I should be looking out for or am I over simplyfying things.

 

[Brian Rutter]

I ordered a speed controller from China about 10 days ago.

Today I received an e-mail from the supplier saying that the customs would not allow shipment and that I would get a full refund.

I have never had this before, why would customs stop it? and not just charge more?. They do not say if it is Chinese or UK customs that are the problem.



Back to square one. Ideally I am looking for a controller that has 220v AC input, 0-12v DC output and suitable for permanent magnet, brushed type motor. Best I can come up with has a DC input but then I need a hefty AC/DC power pack.

Keep on looking.



I thought I was getting close.

 

[Pierre]

Yes I have small spots, I think I have ended up with beech rolling pins.




Thanks for the link, but those unfortunatly are out of my budget.

I have been thinking about trying to avoid tools that need sharpening - need to buy a grind stone and I do not have the space to put one and it is another skill I will have to learn.

I have the beech for the handles, I have the 12mm EN3B steel for the shafts all I need are the tips. Is there anything I should be looking out for or am I over simplyfying things.

Whatever you get you are going to have to sharpen it, and if you use the wrong grindstone on small tips you run the risk of wearing them away too fast so you will end up spending as much as on tools anyway. The simplest method of sharpening which I used to use on my square chisels (when I couldn't afford my Tormek) is to stick some fine sand paper (600 and 800 grits should do once you have the main cutting edge defined) on a thick piece of flat glass and use that for any square or straight edges, its more difficult for curves but that can be overcome by using felt tip pen on the bevel and rubbing it away. For scrapers of any form you should try to get a 15 degree upwards burr (15 degrees from the flat side opposite the bevel) all the rest should be a pure join between 2 angles to create a slicing edge. Remember when ever you turn you should start by rubbing the bevel on the wood then lifting the back hand until the blade starts to cut.

 

[silver]

Enjoying watching the build Brian and you are certainly getting there.

I am looking for a controller that has 220v AC input, 0-12v DC output and suitable for permanent magnet, brushed type motor. Best I can come up with has a DC input but then I need a hefty AC/DC power pack.

Keep on looking.

Not sure what Amps you are wanting to pull on the 12v unit Brian.

But rather than an 240v AC To DC controller why not go for a straightforward 240 AC to 12 DC convert or then put a simple 12v controller in.

Have a look at this..

RUIZHI DC Motor Speed Controller DC 6-60V 12V 24V 36V 48V 30A PWM ，(PWM) Speed Adjustable Stepless Governor Regulator, Motor Speed Controller with Start Stop Switch: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

 

[Brian Rutter]

Thanks for the reply, I am struggling a bit. Help, advice, opinions would be gratefully accepted.

This is my motor
,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=xd-63100&_sacat=0

The motor I have is XD-63100 and printed on the motor is 150W DC12v 300r/min
The rated current appears to be 4.42 Amps and the stall current 5.5 Amps

Some of the adds for this motor say that it is a permanent magnet type, others do not mention it. Some of the controllers state that they are suitable for permanent magnet type others do not mention it. This totally baffles me.

The unit you link looks good with the exception that it does not mention if it is suitable for a permanent magnet motor, if in fact mine is of that variety.

What do you think?

 

[Brian Rutter]

Point 1

A simple test with a needle dangling on a thin cotton thread shows that the motor does indeed have stong inboard magnets installed.

Point 2

I am lead to believe that Speed controllers using the PMW (Pulse Width Modulation) are suitable for Permanent Magnet DC motors.

Sorted

Thanks Silver for pointing me in this direction.

 

[silver]

Thanks for the reply, I am struggling a bit. Help, advice, opinions would be gratefully accepted.

This is my motor
,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=xd-63100&_sacat=0

The motor I have is XD-63100 and printed on the motor is 150W DC12v 300r/min
The rated current appears to be 4.42 Amps and the stall current 5.5 Amps

Some of the adds for this motor say that it is a permanent magnet type, others do not mention it. Some of the controllers state that they are suitable for permanent magnet type others do not mention it. This totally baffles me.

The unit you link looks good with the exception that it does not mention if it is suitable for a permanent magnet motor, if in fact mine is of that variety.

What do you think?

Using Ohms law the motor specs you have posted doesn’t tally with that calculation Brian.

W divide by V = R

150\12 makes it 12.5 amp loading.