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First attempt at Kitless

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Burt25

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After a few weeks of sketching, working out sizes and getting help and advice from the good people on the forum, I finally took the plunge today and had a go at a kitlesspen in green acrylic and Conway Stewart Ebonite. Still have to make a cap, but really enjoyed this first attenpt and quite pleased with how its turned out so far.
20170617_215950.jpg20170617_220215.jpg
 
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Burt25

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Just hoping the cap fits, there's not much between the section and barrel! :praying: not sure yet what I'm doing for a clip.
 
Phil Dart

Phil Dart

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Way ahead of many other first attempts I've seen Ian. I'm sure you know the bits you're not happy with but from where I'm sitting it looks extremely accomplished. Looking forward to seeing the cap.
 
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Burt25

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GSteer said:
Aha. Which chuck did you get? I'm evaluating the options myself at the moment for the M33 thread on mine.
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Greg
I got mine from Chronos it's 3/4 x 16tpi. Not sure if they have m33. One thing I noticed is that if I place a piece of steel rod in the chuck it runs with virtually no run out but acrylic or corian isn't so good. I've been turning some corian down to a cylinder in my 4 jaw chuck to make mandrels but there's a small bit of wobble when I transfer to collet :thinks:
 
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Burt25

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Phil Dart said:
Way ahead of many other first attempts I've seen Ian. I'm sure you know the bits you're not happy with but from where I'm sitting it looks extremely accomplished. Looking forward to seeing the cap.
Click to expand...

Thanks Phil,

I've drilled and threaded the cap with a single thread m12x0.75 and the section and nib goes in with minimal clearance but my recess between barrel thread and shoulder of the barrel mustn't be wide enough as I don't have fully cut threads due to the initial taper on the die. I rectifying it by flipping the die and recutting the threads but I'm not sure if this is normal practice for threading up to a shoulder?
 
Phil Dart

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Would a plug tap (or bottoming tap in US speak) solve the problem? If I haven't misunderstood what you're describing, it's possible that it might.
 
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Burt25

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Phil Dart said:
Would a plug tap (or bottoming tap in US speak) solve the problem? If I haven't misunderstood what you're describing, it's possible that it might.
Click to expand...

Phil, its the die that's the issue, it has a starting taper which prevents threading right up to the shoulder. I overcome it by flipping the die and completing the thread with that side, but was wondering if that was normal practice?
 
Bill Mooney

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It looks a good job Ian.:thumbs: Normally the thread doesn't go right up to the shoulder. A small recess is made right next to the shoulder to the depth of the thread. This stops the problem of the lead in taper of the die.
 
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Burt25

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Bill Mooney said:
It looks a good job Ian.:thumbs: Normally the thread doesn't go right up to the shoulder. A small recess is made right next to the shoulder to the depth of the thread. This stops the problem of the lead in taper of the die.
Click to expand...

Hi Bill, I cut a recess with a thin parting tool but wasn't wide enough to take out all of the part cut section of thread so I re cut with the other side of the die. I was wondering if the taper varies with different taps? I also realise why a triple start thread is needed as I've 9 turns to get cap on!
 
Penpal

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Ian I like your work on this pen, there is nothing wright or wrong with a kit pen or so called kitless like yours. They both serve their purpose. You will find it another ball game if you like beautiful timber. Triple start does seem a way to go few users would put up with 9 turns to remove and restore the cap.

Congratulations on your first of this making for you I see a great pen.

Peter.
 
Phil Dart

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Ian, I mis-understood. What you have done is perfectly correct. Cut your male thread with the tapered edge of the die first, then reverse the die and re-cut until it butts up to the body of the barrel. Then cut your shoulder with a thin parting tool to create a negative space.
 
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