Friction polish as a finish

[wm460]

Cant find any one in Aust selling Craftcoat.

 

[Walter]

Thanks for that Walter - last question (maybe) do you find you need to wait the 24hrs that Mr Brown mentions before burnishing, or can it be done after a shorter while (by which I really mean straight away)?

You can do it straight away but you get a better shine if you leave it to harden. A few hours rather than 24 seems to do it.

 

[Penpal]

Used to use friction polish twenty years ago.

Peter.

 

[Grump]

Keep your ardat on Phil there's a lot more to come yet,
I'm just sitting on a fence with this for now init?

 

[paulm]

I agree totally with you Phil. I've heard all sorts of arguments against it such as I like to feel the wood but covered in wax, what wood are you feeling?

I have a new bottle of Drechseln and Mehr pen finish that I'm going to put on the auction site if anyone is interested. I never got around to trying it.

 

[Walter]

I prefer spray acrylic lacquer from Halfrauds etc. Tried the liquid stuff that Walter mentions but can't seem to get a decent finish out of it.

You do have to be quick to apply it and make sure it is dry between coats. took a bit of practice to get right. That's why I am trying the CraftCoat, I want something that is quick and easy to apply but is longer lasting than friction polish.

 

[Louie_Powell]

Not so fast - - -

Friction polish is a finish that cures from the heat generated when the wood is rubbed with a cloth or paper towel while spinning on the lathe.

The most common version (and most commercial friction polishes) are shellac based. They produce a very high gloss, but aren't known for resistance to wear.

There are also oil/wax friction polishes that are great for utilitarian items. The fairly common mineral oil/wax finish used on treenware is an example that is known for being 'food safe'. I make a version that I use on tool handles from boiled linseed oil, and paste wax that I liquify by dissolving in turpentine. Finishes the wood, but also feels good in the hands.

I make a friction polish using lacquer that is much more abrasion resistant than the commercial shellac-based polishes. Equal quantities of a good quality lacquer, lacquer thinner, and an oil - I use pure tung oil, but boiled linseed also works if you are satisfied with the slightly stronger amber color.

 

[Phil Dart]

Keep your ardat on Phil there's a lot more to come yet,
I'm just sitting on a fence with this for now init?

C'mon you pussycat, dish it out. I can take it.

 

[Walter]

I'm just sitting on a fence with this for now init?

Come on Brian, you will only give yourself a bad case of Chalfonts

 

[Walter]

Not so fast - - -

Friction polish is a finish that cures from the heat generated when the wood is rubbed with a cloth or paper towel while spinning on the lathe.

In that case CA could be described a friction polish.

The most common version (and most commercial friction polishes) are shellac based. They produce a very high gloss, but aren't known for resistance to wear.

That's the stuff we are talking about in this thread.

There are also oil/wax friction polishes that are great for utilitarian items. The fairly common mineral oil/wax finish used on treenware is an example that is known for being 'food safe'. I make a version that I use on tool handles from boiled linseed oil, and paste wax that I liquify by dissolving in turpentine. Finishes the wood, but also feels good in the hands.

I make a friction polish using lacquer that is much more abrasion resistant than the commercial shellac-based polishes. Equal quantities of a good quality lacquer, lacquer thinner, and an oil - I use pure tung oil, but boiled linseed also works if you are satisfied with the slightly stronger amber color.

Sounds like an effective finish for lots of things.

 

[Bill Mooney]

Like Walter I like Farecla 300 & 500 cream as it cuts & polishes at the same time & works well.
I have used a hard lacquer which is used for timber floors which gave an excellent shine & stands up to shoe traffic in public buildings. I'll have to see if I can find the tin.

 

[sharpy]

On a pen making course I went on last year, we used the Hut Crystal Coat. This now seems to have been replaced at TR by a 'Diamond Coat Pen Polish'.
My question to those with more experience than myself would be are these just standard friction polishes marketed with the pen maker in mind or are they harder wearing than the standard friction polishes?

 

[Wrongway]

I hadnt heard of Farecla. Google tells me it's a car product for scratch removal. I have found it at Halfords website. Out of interest which is bet as it appears to be sold as a paste, a liquid and a resin super wax. Also they only seem to keep the G3 and not the 300 or 500. If it's good I might get some next time I pass Halfords.

 

[silver]

I'm sure there are loads of newbies and oldies reading this thread and want to know which is best.

To be honest, the one you like, your customer likes and the one you are confident in applying. .

I have tried many and by that I mean hundreds of friction polishes, lacquers and different thickness CA,s nd would not recommend any method of applying the pen finish.

What I say is when you find the finish you are happy with, can do with confidence then that is the finish for you..

I use a mixture of all the above for different pens, depending on what mood I'm in and what time of year it is and

If the tablets are taking effect..

But seriously the time of year does effect setting of lacquers and the likes of CA . The latter needs some lititle moisture in the air to set and the others don't like moisture..

But heating in the cave can help.

As you can see that is my opinion and sticking to it so follow my method and you will come out with pens of fantastic finish..

 

[Jim]

I like to change my finishes regular, i may go with a friction polish finish for a month and then change to another product for a month. I use a CA finish on what I believe to be either a quality kit or blank. I have sold and given many pens away over the years and never had one complaint from a customer regarding the finish .. I have had a pen of my own get the white milky finish under the CA though ..

 

[Walter]

I hadnt heard of Farecla. Google tells me it's a car product for scratch removal. I have found it at Halfords website. Out of interest which is bet as it appears to be sold as a paste, a liquid and a resin super wax. Also they only seem to keep the G3 and not the 300 or 500. If it's good I might get some next time I pass Halfords.

The Profile 300 & 500 and the G3 are completely different products.

The Profile 300 and 500 are compounding systems designed for the marine maintenance (fibreglass) industry.

This is from the Farecla website:

"Profile 300 is a mid range, high gloss, water-based compound capable of removing P1000-P1200 dry abrasive marks

Profile 500 is a light cut, water-based compound used primarily as a second finishing step to remove swirl marks and give a high gloss finish."

The G3 is a range of consumer products designed to remove light scratching from car paintwork.

Whilst the G3 will probably do the job, it is an abrasive like any other, you will get better results with the Profile 300 and 500 abrasives which are designed for polishing plastics.

You can get them online from East Coast Fibreglass

Edit: Brian will be along in a minute to tell you I am wrong and you should use toothpaste. :wink:

 

[rayf6604]

East Coast don't appear to have the profile 500 in the small tube which is annoying. They have it in the 300.

 

[bellringer]

Farcale is the best thing after sliced bread

 

[Walter]

East Coast don't appear to have the profile 500 in the small tube which is annoying. They have it in the 300.

Just use toothpaste.

Try here: Farecla Profile 500 Light Cut Compound

 

[rayf6604]

Just use toothpaste.

Try here: Farecla Profile 500 Light Cut Compound

Thank you Walter