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gluing pen tubes

Terry Q

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I have never used epoxy. My attempts with using CA failed while turning. I switched to Gorilla glue years ago and have had 100% success. I drill and glue at the end of the day and the blanks are ready first thing in the morning.

I suspect a 1 mil difference will affect the nib protrusion length.
 

Woody

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I have never used epoxy. My attempts with using CA failed while turning. I switched to Gorilla glue years ago and have had 100% success. I drill and glue at the end of the day and the blanks are ready first thing in the morning.

I suspect a 1 mil difference will affect the nib protrusion length.

I to have used a lot off Gorilla glue in the past in the same manner that you do Terry but now I make very few pens so I dont do big batches any-more I have to agree with you it works brilliantly but were I only do a few pens now I found the glue crystallised before I could use it up so I changed to CA glue a lot of people say it pushes the tube out of the wood but to be honest I have never once had this problem
 

Penpal

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Oodles of advice so far mate for glueing I choose 120ml or smallish glue with the screw on lids line up the blanks and prepared brass use sliced potato in the pushed in end of the brass carefully drying it after inserting the spud dip a skewer in the opened bottle am very liberal with the glue both inside and on the brass. Lots of table napkins handy and mostly do batches.An observation I drill heaps at a time up to 100 ie two hundred blanks with Slimlines. Keep a drill of the right size set in a wooden handle and check a batch before glueing with it never have a problem again it can be distressing with some kits its the kiss of death for a proper fit if the brass is prominent and you cut it off there is no compromise with some. If its Slimline Streamline the top length is not critical use the shorter half at the top. Sometimes leaving the brass on the one you have the protusion sand the stuck out bit off but retain the length if it is only a mm leave the blank end recessed 1mm in the blank as a rule there is enough pressing area left and the integrity is retained.

Peter.:thumbs:
 

Terry Q

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I buy a small size bottle of Gorilla glue. I prefer the white for no reason other than its lighter than the original. The inside of the cap has a metal stem that inserts into the hole and keeps air from drying out the glue. I also store it cap down. I have had these small bottles last for over a year. One of these bottles will glue a lot of pens.
 

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Grump

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That's interesting Terry, I have never seen small bottles like that in Gorilla glue.
In fact I have only ever seen Gorilla glue once for sale locally, that was a huge container and a huge price tag.
Never used it and can't use epoxy due to allergy so for me it's ca or contact adhesive.
 

Woody

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The only gorilla glue can get over here is a 500ml and 250ml polyurethane which foams up to a fawn colour and white wood glue
 

Buckeye

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CA works fine for me sticking metal tubes inside acrylic, both non porous materials, works a treat.

Peter
 

rayf6604

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CA works fine for me sticking metal tubes inside acrylic, both non porous materials, works a treat.

Peter
I do use ca on plastics but sometimes I've had it give way and had to reglue the tube. Also if I've painted the inside of the blank the tube can be a very snug fit so to give me the chance of getting the tube all the way in without ca sticking part way in, which has happened before, I like to use the polyurethane glue.
 

silver

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My four peneth...

I go along with the ide of drilling and gluing the following day and moving the blanks in doors as well that has caused you problems..

As for taking off the 1mm (ish) off the cap end should not cause any major issues, however if it was the refill tube then I would agree with Walter and Neil and rip it off and Start again ..:thumbs:

As for gluing tubes in place.... Glue with what you are happy glueing with, I have used all types and methods, if it works for you then it works, stick to it (pun:rolling:)
 

Phil Dart

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I have never used epoxy. My attempts with using CA failed while turning. I switched to Gorilla glue years ago and have had 100% success. I drill and glue at the end of the day and the blanks are ready first thing in the morning.

Great minds Terry, great minds... THE perfect working practice. Reading all these CA sniffers posts, I was beginning to think I was the odd one out.

I agree though - 60ml bottles is the way to go, not only to use it all before it goes off, but also because the bigger bottles get in such a messed up way that by the time the glue itself is finished, you're glad when you get to the end and a new bottle. On a cold day I always bring mine to room temperature before use.
 

Walter

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On a cold day I always bring mine to room temperature before use.

Frankie Howerd said:
OOhh!! Errr missus

Seriously though, that applies to epoxy too. Much easier to work with at room temperature.

I cannot understand the fixation with CA for gluing tubes either. Makes as much sense to me as banging your head off the wall to cure a headache. :nooidea:

Continuing to use an inferior method when you know there is a better way just makes no sense at all.
 

wm460

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Seriously though, that applies to epoxy too. Much easier to work with at room temperature.

I cannot understand the fixation with CA for gluing tubes either. Makes as much sense to me as banging your head off the wall to cure a headache. :nooidea:

Continuing to use an inferior method when you know there is a better way just makes no sense at all.

Well Said Walter.:thumbs::thumbs:
 

Grump

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I have explained my reasons for using ca, not that I need to justify myself and not because there is a better or alternative method.

Just a thought on this reducing tube length by 1mm or so, make sure it is only 1mm and not in danger of leaving the clip end rubbing on the belt or sticking out past it.
Some of the crap kits we use have little room for errors, also in the case of FP you could crush the nib or not seat the cap correctly by taking it down too much init?
 
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