HELP-Lathe drilling for an Omega

[Penpal]

I've reamed holes on my metal work lathe into steel and noticed it cuts a very slightly larger hole if the tailstock is locked and the reamer is advanced into the work with the hand wheel. If the tail stock is left unlocked and the reamer is advanced by slowly moving the complete tail stock the reamer follows the prepared hole more closely and cuts to size. The tail stock appears to be spot on with the headstock but is perhaps very slightly off. The tail stock is adjustable on my MW lathe but the error is so small attempting to adjust it is likely to make things worse.

This why I ream with a slightly smaller reamer found this helped me making my first Mandrel Saver to achieve a beaut fit on the mandrel then the mongrel mandrels sizes are all over the place. Then the spacers were all over the place.
Drill are nor what they say either. Overall pen making is a series of compromises more so because wood lathes are not made to the same tolerances, cost more. Pity really. Just thinking out loud Wiliam.

Peter.

 

[silver]

Kiss me

The Kiss Test..

Put a dead centre in the head stock and another in the tail stock. Bring the tail stock up to the head stock to see if the points meet "point to point"

That's it simple..

it can be a live centre but make sure there is no wear on the bearings as it may give you a false measurement.

It can be a pronged drive point, provided it has a point.

Hope you get the point.. ok I will put me coat on..

 

[Penpal]

When you bring the two points near to touch introduce a thin feeler guage blade between then gently together, this will show over 360 degrees any deviation. Also using a straight piece of metal rod in the chuck extended run a dial guage along parrallel, you have so many checks you can do if you want to nail the problem. Utilise the net with metal lathe info where this is vital.

Peter.

 

[webby962]

Thanks all :-) Much appreciated