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How long do you use your bushings for before replacing?
- Thread starter ajmw89
- Start date
I'm a miser when it comes to bushings and only replace them when absolutely necessary despite them being as cheap as chips. What problems are you having with the ends of the pen barrels? How about a picture?
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2013
- Posts
- 9,505
- First Name
- Terry
How long is a piece of string Adam. I have never had to replace a set of bushes but if I suspected they were worn then I would do so !!!!
It seems to be when I come down to trying to get the final size at the end of each barrel matching the bushing, the wood cracks. When I get near, I turn the speed right down, so as not to go too hard on the wood and use my skew almost like a scraper as I feel I'm more able to control what I'm doing then.
Walter
Fellow
I throw them away and turn between centres.
Walter
Fellow
And there is your problem. Using a scraping action places far more stress on the timber than the normal shearing action of the skew. Stop being a wimp, use the tool properly and the problem will go away. :wink:
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2013
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- 9,505
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- Terry
Make sure your drills are sharp and are drilling true. If the drills are wandering slightly then you can get air pockets right at the end of the blank when the tube is in and this is one of the reasons why the end cracks. Also ensure the glue is getting to all parts of the inner section of the blank and exterior part of the tube !!!
Walter
Fellow
Terry's suggestions might be contributing factors for sure. If you must use the skew as a scraper make sure that you raise the handle so that the top bevel is above horizontal and on the centre line of the work then the tool is acting as a negative rake scraper. With the handle held low the tool makes a heavier cut and is more likely to split the blank.
I actually use a skew in scraping mode if I deliberately want to split the wood to remove a faulty blank.
I actually use a skew in scraping mode if I deliberately want to split the wood to remove a faulty blank.
What wood are you using? I don't think the bushings will have anything to do with the problems you're having and along with what Terry says, make sure that your skew is razor sharp. If the problem hasn't gone away then its probably your drilling.
It sounds as though you are creating your own problem with the skew as Walter said using it as a scrapper will put more stress on the already thin layer of wood causing it to crumble practice with the skew is what you need forget pens for a day or so and just practice using the skew using a planing cut on some scrap wood then I think your problem will go away I hope this helps solve your problem for you Happy turning
Before I got used to using the Skew I used a Robert Sorby Spindle Master that helped a loy
Vic
Vic
Speak English please, they are bushes not bushings.
Not to be relied on by any means and not the reason for wood splitting.
Use them as a guide to get somewhere near your finish then take to callipers for a more reliable form of measurement.
If you can't use your tools properly at this stage, take to scratch, you can soon rip a mil or two off with a bit of 400grit and work to smooth with finer grits.
Not to be relied on by any means and not the reason for wood splitting.
Use them as a guide to get somewhere near your finish then take to callipers for a more reliable form of measurement.
If you can't use your tools properly at this stage, take to scratch, you can soon rip a mil or two off with a bit of 400grit and work to smooth with finer grits.
Do you sand with the bushes on? When you use the skew as a scraper, does the tool scrape the bushes as well as the wood? Do you use a CA finish, then remove the CA from the bushes to free the blank? Any of these will abrade the bushes and reduce their diameter, making them unreliable as guides for the finish diameter. If they are no longer accurate throw them in the bin and buy new ones. Or, as Grump says, use callipers as your guide - then you can carry on using them to compress the blank on the mandrel.
To find out whether your bushes are reliable take a pair of digital callipers (£7.50 at Wilkinson), measure the bush diameter, then measure the diameter of the centreband at the edge where it contacts the blank. If there is a significant difference (more than about 0.2 of a mm) the bushes are toast. Note that this only works for slimlines - most other pen bushes have different diameters at each end. For them you have to measure each individual bush and it's corresponding kit component.
Not to take away from anything already posted - just something else to consider!
To find out whether your bushes are reliable take a pair of digital callipers (£7.50 at Wilkinson), measure the bush diameter, then measure the diameter of the centreband at the edge where it contacts the blank. If there is a significant difference (more than about 0.2 of a mm) the bushes are toast. Note that this only works for slimlines - most other pen bushes have different diameters at each end. For them you have to measure each individual bush and it's corresponding kit component.
Not to take away from anything already posted - just something else to consider!
chas_41_uk
Registered
As already stated there are a number of possible causes, the bushes being the least likely.
or put the skew down
big roughing gouge to get close
detail spindle gouge each end
leave a bit proud and sand
job done
Steve
That`s the way I do it.
Ray
or put the skew down
big roughing gouge to get close
detail spindle gouge each end
leave a bit proud and sand
job done
Steve
I'm with twister. I make almost all my pens with just a roughing gouge and occasionally a spindle gouge as design demands. Keep the handle just lower than parallel to the bed and rub the bevel like you've never rubbed a bevel before. Increase the bevel angle a bit if it makes you happier, and make sure you keep it razor sharp at all times. Whats a skew anyway?
