Steve,
I have been using CA glue for my high end finishing for years. I found that if you finish your pen with a glossy surface first, then burnish after, then clean down with meths on the surface and again burnish, your surface is correct for gluing.
I have in the pass used sanding sealer first and then polished, just using a cloth. Then applied five coats of CA glue and lightly wet sand with 12000 grit, after the five coats. Cleaned again and applied another five coats of CA glue.
Finally, going through all the polishing grits, up to 12000. Polish with a fine polish compound to a deep gloss shine.
If you use an accelerator, it will find and release gas under the surface of the coating, this will result in small white “spots” under your CA glue. I have found that your surface is cleaner if you don’t use an accelerator.
Also, the wood itself can be a problem. Some very hard woods, don’t keep the glue on very well, even if sealing is not used. I found that oak, some mahogany, Thuyr burl wood and some walnut wood keep the adhesion very well.
It would take you about an hour to complete this method of CA gluing per pen, time consuming yes! But the result can be stunning, if done slowly.
I have always tried out CA on different woods. Perhaps you could do the same and experience the ease and difficulty of CA gluing on different woods. It would give you an insight to the different grain and sanding aspects on wood. Remember, wood will darken more often, if you use sanding sealer before CA gluing. The nature of the wood.
Eg, sanding x cut compared with lateral cut woods, different sanding paper grades and speed of lathe. I, personally would not use abranet, they can create more deep sanding lines within the wood surface, use ordinary sanding paper, LIGHTLY.
One more safety objective, please use ample ventilation in your workspace when using CA glue. The vapours are not nice, most face masks are not safe to use. Take care!
Kelvin
