How to get a glossy finish on wooden pens?

[SP1646]

Having read numerous advice on pen finishing , I’m convinced of two things. First, what type of durability is required. Secondly, unless one wants to have a regular maintenance issue or scratched finish, several costs of Melamine is by far the best. I recall Phil at Beaufort recommends this too. I recently made a coffee table of a large ( 4inch thick) slab of bark sided spalted beech with some lovely red hairpin legs from The Hairpin Leg Company and applied 5 coats of Melamine lacquer suitably rubbed down in between. The finish is incredibly durable and can be matt , satin or gloss. I wont be using anything else on my wood pens from hereon.

Thanks Nicholas, I have bought some today, will also give it a try.

 

[ApacheZ1]

Hi everyone, any help appreciated..

I've attached some pics of the pens that I have made I've the last couple of months. To finish, I use a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer, rubbed back with 800 or 1000 grit abranet, before applying either friction polish or a wax of some kind, but my pens have a matt finish. What do others do to get the deep gloss that I see on other posts?

 

[ApacheZ1]

Hi Steve,
I may advise wire wool after you end cutting.
Now start with 1500 wet n dry and go through to 12000.
Seal it then use wax and every time you get the old furniture polish out give some to your pens.
Works for me.
Cheers and welcome to the mad house.

 

[Adal6]

Melamine Steve a lovely finish a nice set of pens

 

[TheOldMan]

Hi everyone, any help appreciated..

I've attached some pics of the pens that I have made I've the last couple of months. To finish, I use a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer, rubbed back with 800 or 1000 grit abranet, before applying either friction polish or a wax of some kind, but my pens have a matt finish. What do others do to get the deep gloss that I see on other posts?

Hi I watched a video from the UK and he did a similar finish. Then I read someone used hand sanitizer and then picked up a pen. The shine was gone almost immediately. The pen will look fine as long as no one actually uses it. Have a great day.

 

[Gert Fitcher]

TruOil gunstock finish.

 

[TheOldMan]

Thank you. Printing now :)

I read your comments and I also printed your document. Thank you.

 

[SP1646]

Hi Steve,
I may advise wire wool after you end cutting.
Now start with 1500 wet n dry and go through to 12000.
Seal it then use wax and every time you get the old furniture polish out give some to your pens.
Works for me.
Cheers and welcome to the mad house.

Thank you. Sorry for the tardy replies, but have been doing the day job...

 

[SP1646]

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions... Here is my latest attempt, following the instructions on these pages.... Blank is Ash and charcoal veneer and finished with melamine

 

[Mohan]

Just to throw a complete spanner in the works

WHY have a gloss finish on wood?
Wood is NOT glossy, I have never and will never coat a wooden blank in anything that gives it a glossy look, I much prefer the natural wood feel and look and with all of the pens I has made (wooden) I have never once had an issue with a "Natural Wood" pen and my customers have loved them.
The look, the feel - your holding a piece of wood NOT a piece of plastic

As a matter of fact I use a wooden pen I made 5 years ago daily and yes the wood colour has changed slightly BUT its still a wood pen, I love writing with it and it looks great

Oh and Steve, your pens look great as they are, I would be VERY happy to have made those

I personally don’t like glossy finish for wood . I luv to feel the wood and its minor undulations . I haven’t made many pens but I insist on my idea and only then sell . Else no wood pens .

 

[flexi]

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions... Here is my latest attempt, following the instructions on these pages.... Blank isView attachment 52792 Ash and charcoal veneer and finished with melamine

Very nice, great finish!

 

[Paul-H]

I have used Melamine before and to be honest I was not totally happy with the results, and I would be the first to admit it's probably down to my technique, even though I followed the well published (on here) instructions.

Then just for the hell of it I gave the spray version a go, and all I can say is WOW, I now have my new favourite gloss finish.

If all else fails give the spray version a go.

 

[SP1646]

I personally don’t like glossy finish for wood . I luv to feel the wood and its minor undulations . I haven’t made many pens but I insist on my idea and only then sell . Else no wood pens .

Actually, I agree with you a better word than Gloss would have been Lustre... Mine always looked matt in comparison to others. But progress is being made

 

[dixter]

I have been using a product sold by a company in the US called Hut Products. They sell the Perfect Pen Polish, which consists of two wax sticks that give my pens a nice, friction-polish finish. One stick is for a matte finish and the other is for a gloss finish. The company recommends using the matte finish first followed by the gloss.

After sanding to 400, 600, or 800 grit, usually at 1600 RPM, turn up the speed to a minimum of 2500 RPM and apply the wax stick to the rotating blank. Then using a paper towel or soft cloth, grab the pen with a good grip, and the heat from the friction amazingly gives me a good durable finish. Depending on the wood I sometimes do the first step by itself and have a nice satin finish.

Here's the link to the company https://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0108
Here's a few examples.

 

[geordie0928]

I like them

 

[SP1646]

I have been using a product sold by a company in the US called Hut Products. They sell the Perfect Pen Polish, which consists of two wax sticks that give my pens a nice, friction-polish finish. One stick is for a matte finish and the other is for a gloss finish. The company recommends using the matte finish first followed by the gloss.

After sanding to 400, 600, or 800 grit, usually at 1600 RPM, turn up the speed to a minimum of 2500 RPM and apply the wax stick to the rotating blank. Then using a paper towel or soft cloth, grab the pen with a good grip, and the heat from the friction amazingly gives me a good durable finish. Depending on the wood I sometimes do the first step by itself and have a nice satin finish.

Here's the link to the company https://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0108
Here's a few examples.

Thank you. I'll look them up.

 

[Paul-H]

Don't bother, I ordered a set of their polishing waxes a month ago and they never shipped anything. What a total waist of time.

 

[mChavez]

Surprised nobody's mentioning shellac in this thread.
4-6 coats give more of a natural wood with matt-ish appearance, but nobody's stopping you from french polishing it to rich deep gloss.

By far the best looking & feeling finish one can even put on wood.

It will wear. Some can call it patina and be happy about it, others can send the pen back to you (or any other woodworker who can do French polish) for a quick re-polish.
If it's dense hardwoods, there won't be nearly as much wear as on softer stuff like mahogany and walnut. Porefilling can be a pain, but we're only talking about a tiny pen, and pores are natural anyway (if they don't want pores, why not get acryllic/corian?).

 

[pittswood]

One problem with shellac is the acid in your own hands will make it go "sticky" It can be re-polished back to a reasonable shine, but it will not last.
Stick to CA glue or Melamine.
Kelvin

 

[mChavez]

I've never had shellac go sticky on me, and I build guitars, where the neck and the lower bout are in constant contact with the skin.

Wearing through the french polish layer with use - absolutely. (Not a big job to repair that if the customer wants a re-polish though. I appreciate many won't want the hassle.).