alan morrison
Fellow
Derek, I hope that your wife continues to improve.
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I am still in the workshop
- Thread starter Dalboy
- Start date
If I thought I was back on track with my last post, it has only taken me since then to drill and tap 6 small holes. This was due to me going down with a severe chest infection and not fit to play with machines.
Hopefully (touch wood) I am now back on track.
So nearly finished the flywheels, just need to put a taper in the centre hole which will become clearer in the operation after that
Hopefully (touch wood) I am now back on track.
So nearly finished the flywheels, just need to put a taper in the centre hole which will become clearer in the operation after that
Back on the farm boy after a short break as I have been doing a write-up for the Model Engineers Workshop magazine and yet more work in the garden.
The flywheels needed a taper putting in the crankshaft hole and also a tapered fixing made to match. Going by the plans, the opening in the flywheel just cut into the three screw holes, which surprised me.
I mounted the flywheels on the faceplate and dialled them in before setting the angle and turning these. Both flywheels were done before turning the matching locking fixings. This meant that the cross slide was already set and both tapers matched.
Still need to drill the fixing holes and also two threaded holes to use if they need extracting from the flywheel in the future as well as a slot.
The flywheels needed a taper putting in the crankshaft hole and also a tapered fixing made to match. Going by the plans, the opening in the flywheel just cut into the three screw holes, which surprised me.
I mounted the flywheels on the faceplate and dialled them in before setting the angle and turning these. Both flywheels were done before turning the matching locking fixings. This meant that the cross slide was already set and both tapers matched.
Still need to drill the fixing holes and also two threaded holes to use if they need extracting from the flywheel in the future as well as a slot.
Managed to get the Fly wheel locking collars completed and could not resist a part dry fit with they in place.
I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)
As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.
The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.
I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)
As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.
The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.
Gadget-UK
Fellow
Derek, your eye for detail and precision is outstanding, I am not going to lie when I say I am in total awe at you skill & patience.
This is like a film that has been split into many parts and have to wait to get to the conclusion.....
This is like a film that has been split into many parts and have to wait to get to the conclusion.....
Thank you.Derek, your eye for detail and precision is outstanding, I am not going to lie when I say I am in total awe at you skill & patience.
This is like a film that has been split into many parts and have to wait to get to the conclusion.....
There has been no progress due to me having an accident with the lathe and now waiting for some spares to arrive so I can continue.
No I was not injured unless you say my pride for not paying attention
I have managed to get the lathe working but can not use the feeds but can manually feed.
After two failed attempts at the governor assembly, I manage to silver solder the two arms on and now happy with the outcome.
Now onto some other small parts and a base for it to sit on so that I can attach the flywheels.
After two failed attempts at the governor assembly, I manage to silver solder the two arms on and now happy with the outcome.
Now onto some other small parts and a base for it to sit on so that I can attach the flywheels.
Not done much lately. But I have made a start on a fuel tank. Turned the main body and ends which is a cylinder at the moment need to make a filler cap and fuel cut off outlet.
Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports
The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out
Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.
After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.
By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.
A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.
Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports
The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out
Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.
After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.
By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.
A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.
Gadget-UK
Fellow
I am NO Expert, but from your photos, facing in looks better 
Not been in the workshop much as sorting out my rear lights on the car as a Morrisons van decided to back into it outside the house.
More work on the Fuel tank. First a little late I managed to get both stand uprights completed, all except the fixing holes. As well as the end cap fixing screws.
Onto the tank once again drilled the filler hole and fuel outlet, this was threaded 1/4″ x40. Turned some brass for the outlet elbow and did the same method as I did for the carburettor elbow by milling at 45deg most of the way through heating and bending before silvers soldering.
Twisted the tank upside down to show the outlet pipe in position. I need to take apart to clean swarf out of the inside
More work on the Fuel tank. First a little late I managed to get both stand uprights completed, all except the fixing holes. As well as the end cap fixing screws.
Onto the tank once again drilled the filler hole and fuel outlet, this was threaded 1/4″ x40. Turned some brass for the outlet elbow and did the same method as I did for the carburettor elbow by milling at 45deg most of the way through heating and bending before silvers soldering.
Twisted the tank upside down to show the outlet pipe in position. I need to take apart to clean swarf out of the inside
alan morrison
Fellow
I'm impressed, Derek.
You have to be careful with the Morrisons about.
You have to be careful with the Morrisons about.
Gadget-UK
Fellow
Blimey you don't half go through it don't you Derek 
Engine is coming along really well though
Engine is coming along really well though
It feels like it this year. Just hope next year iss betterBlimey you don't half go through it don't you Derek
Engine is coming along really well though
At least I can get a little done in the workshop
