I have an inherent mistrust of wood moisture meters, or rather hobby or craft ones, I had one and the moisture readings were incredibly unreliable when compared to the industrial meters we had at our factory. We used to buy in supposedly kiln dried. To complete the drying process we kiln dried the wood for six weeks. Once it was dried if it was to be fir rated it was put in a vacuum for twenty minutes and the vessel was flooded with a magnesium chloride solution and the pressurised for twenty minutes. The pressure chamber was drained and a vacuum reset abolished for a few seconds to remove excess moisture. The slats, at 25mm thick we're then placed back in the kiln for another six weeks to get the hrs down to 14% max.
I find it impossible to believe that the centre of a decent size blank could be dry other than after a significant period or either air or kiln drying, but as always I remain open to being convinced!
Interesting.
Do you now have this equipment at home now,to test your wood, or do you use another method!
I do agree that cheap moisture meters are not that reliable, but they are indicative of moisture loss!
I don't work in a controlled environment, as I'm sure you don't, through experience though an indication of between 14 to 16% on the particular one I have has continued to give good results with pen blanks. The rest is through experience only.
The fact that you state that this is impossible to believe, I find quite astounding. The whole principle of drying wood is to relieve it of its moisture content in a controlled way. Wood will always lose moisture from its surface area, whether it is kiln, air, or microwave dried.
A modern build centrally heated house can now have an EMC as low as 8% so every ones figures could be considered out of date
Apologies to PhilH, didn't mean to hijack your thread