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Non stick bushes

Wrongway

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Does anyone know a source of non stick bushes, PTFE or similar. I am trying to prevent the original bushes sticking after adding CA coatings. Tried ebay etc. but nothing.
 

Wrongway

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Never seen them but you could always make your own bushes out of ptfe, I've done that before :thumbs:

Thats a nice idea. I suppose they could be turned down on a wood lathe ok. Just seen some 10mm ptfe bar on ebay, half a metre long fro £6.
 

Woody

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You would be better of applying your ca finish between centres that way they wont have anything to stick to
Or do what I and many older turners do polish or even craft finish from turners workshop
 

silver

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You will need delrin to make your own bushes if you want non stick.

However I have never used them as I use cones when I do the CA finish.

I have heard many times about non stick, but if you take care and change them for cones I have never had that problem.
 

Wrongway

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You will need delrin to make your own bushes if you want non stick.

However I have never used them as I use cones when I do the CA finish.

I have heard many times about non stick, but if you take care and change them for cones I have never had that problem.

Are these delrin cones?
 

Jim

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Robbie, i use paste wax on the edges of each tube, i have been doing this for years with good results .. Sometimes a light tap is all that is needed to relieve the bushing ..
 

Terry Q

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Commercial bushings in the rear. My homemade bushings in the front made from 1/2 inch thick PTFE. They arent pretty but they work just fine. Wish we lived closer I have lots of this and would gladly share.
 

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rayf6604

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You would be better of applying your ca finish between centres that way they wont have anything to stick to
Or do what I and many older turners do polish or even craft finish from turners workshop
I have to agree with you Woody, I use friction polish and wax finish over that, which is a post I've been meaning to do about this wax finish. Walter kindly tested it for me and he had good results with it.
 

Wrongway

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Cheers for all the useful suggestions. I'm going to try some delrin just to see if it helps. But will try the wax approach too. I think what has prompted this is the arrival of the rhodium Zetas from Dan. I noticed part of the bush pushes inside the brass tube which is something new for me. The simpler slimline bush hasnt been a problen to separate, but I was dreading getting CA on these bushes.

I'm still very much experimenting. I have some Craft Coat ordered to see what that is like. I am hoping to learn both techniques, wax finish as well as CA. Wax seems to look more natural but I expect is not as durable as a CA finish thats been polished.
 

Penpal

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I can not remember the sticking up the bushes with CA however I use two sizes anyway only as a guide since I measure every one. I cut the steel bushes under a bit. My one coat of CA never lets me down I put it on at half full speed its never flooded on. My latest pen proves the point. One coat of CA followed by an activator spray immediately followed by a smear of stick brown polish. You can spend all day if you choose finishing. I have that pen in my hand as I write looks and feels very natural. I have an enormous tin of Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax 100% grade car polish that would last a lifetime I bought at a car place closing down I use occassionally Made in the good ole USA. The simple lighting I use kills the glare I could have from the finish I try to give detail not reflective pics.

Note the top of this pen was faceted so it the CA was applied with the lathe at rest also no worries. I did research carefully to find the CA I could absolutely rely on. Mine is called ZAP Zap a gap Medium from the USA. The activator Hafele from Germany.

KInd regards Peter.
 

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Walter

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You would be better of applying your ca finish between centres that way they wont have anything to stick to

I have never used them as I use cones when I do the CA finish. I have heard many times about non stick, but if you take care and change them for cones I have never had that problem.

Sensible advice from Woody and Eamonn.

Here is what I said in my article on CA in Woodturning magazine:

"One of the problems many turners
experience when finishing with CA is that the
CA will stick to the bushings. A thin coating
will break away cleanly when the blanks
are removed, but a thick layer can cause
unsightly chipping at the ends of the blank.
Numerous weird and wonderful methods
have been devised to overcome this problem,
ranging from smearing the bushings with
wax to using the point of a skew chisel to cut
the blank cleanly from the bushings. In my
experience none of these methods are wholly
effective and it is much better to remove the
blank from the bushings and finish it between
centres or between cone bushings, so that
there is nothing in contact with the ends of
the blank for the CA to adhere to."
 

Wrongway

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To turn between centres I would need live and dead 60 degree centres straight onto the turned tubed blanks right? Would this cause wear on the dead centre side of the tube due to slipping. Sorry if this is basic stuff. I am still learning.
 

rayf6604

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To turn between centres I would need live and dead 60 degree centres straight onto the turned tubed blanks right? Would this cause wear on the dead centre side of the tube due to slipping. Sorry if this is basic stuff. I am still learning.
The worst thing it could do is splay out the ends of your brass tube inside the blank causing potential problems fitting the pen together. You mustn't put much pressure on from the tail stock end when you turn between centres. It will mark your centres but shouldn't damage them. I personally would favour the plastic cone method rather than putting the centres directly into the brass tube.
 

Penpal

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So how do you think we made pens before the days of mandrel and bushes

I know mate with difficulty but easily overcame needs must I always stick to what I do in trying to help others by saying what I do with what product purely to say it works for me I do not have a closed mind nor do you so people can make up their own mind and gain their experiences how they choose. I started by making my own wood lathe refurbishing modifying equipment (still doing that ) half the fun.I am sure so many things I do no one else does like go no go test check or reject brasses, rough up brasses, use potato slices then mop up the brass and so on for every thing I do someone skips or never has or will, the drills I choose the way I drill, press ream and finish all different.

Pity the basics were not tidied up early to a concise all inclusive section in the library to save getting into semantics so many times. However the authors of many now books on making pens so perhaps buying a book is a great idea.Not all authors agree but all have valuable insights. The earliest book I have the author used to work as an engineer and used measuring equipment to the very smallest fraction on all fits with a micrometer very few beginners have seen one of these let alone learnt to use one. I met him here in Australia and having read his book spent a day with him and some others, wonderful to be able to ask anything about pens. The libraries and videos abound now great sources of knowledge. Love these oportunities to watch You tube stuff.

Woody you contibute so much.

Peter.:thumbs::thumbs:
 

EStreet

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Er, 'non-stick bushings', that is something that is in the same category as unicorns, leprechaun's, the tooth fairy, honest politicians, bigfoot, alien abductions and the lock ness monster. Something we hear often about but there is no proof to the claims. Restricting your scope to a specific type of material limits your creativity and encourages economic materialism.

For example as previously mentioned adding wax to the metal is a very easy fix, it's very cheap and economical.
 
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