Pen blank Squaring Jig

[21William]

I like Marks idea, a simple sanding disc in the collet. The chuck is a good idea so I may pursue that if I feel the need. It all depends on how hard the hobby bites.

I could get a couple of sets of transfer punches (metric & inch) for about £30 but I know I'd never use more than a couple of them, not least because they jump up in 1/2mm steps. It's more appealing to me to make the odd part I need as I always have the raw material in stock.

Each to their own though.

 

[turnaround360]

Can't be much simpler or more accurate than this Peter, ( thanks to Terrys' version which I copied ). The sled slides in the mitre groove.
I've seen sets of transfer punches on OZ ebay for $25 though didn't check postage. Think they were imperial but not sure.

I made this one toolooks just like this .

 

[turnaround360]

You can use old drill bits they work just aswell.

 

[turnaround360]

I have an old chuck if you want to pay the postage.

 

[21William]

You can use old drill bits they work just as well.

I did think that but was hesitant to mention it for fear of being shot down. :wink:

It occurs to me that I have a 1/2" chuck somewhere that may have the base drilled out*. You could then possibly put bits in backwards but I'm not sure how well that would work although I'm sure I've done something similar before to line something up in the metalwork lathe. Fixing the chuck could be a problem though.

* It was a method advocated to remove a stuck arbor from a chuck - drill the back out with say a 3/8" bit and punch off the arbor with a drift. I got a very nice Jacobs chuck that way as the previous owner could'nt get the arbor out!

 

[turnaround360]

I just put the drill in the normal way but i dull
The tip it works fine.

 

[Bill Mooney]

 

[wm460]

I like Marks idea, a simple sanding disc in the collet. The chuck is a good idea so I may pursue that if I feel the need. It all depends on how hard the hobby bites.

I could get a couple of sets of transfer punches (metric & inch) for about £30 but I know I'd never use more than a couple of them, not least because they jump up in 1/2mm steps. It's more appealing to me to make the odd part I need as I always have the raw material in stock.

Each to their own though.

If you get a collet chuck get a ER 40 or min ER 32, I bought a ER 25 and regularly need bigger sizes.
I use them on both metal and wood lathe also on the mill.

ER25 Collets 2-16MM

ER32 Collets 2-20MM

ER40 Collets 3-26MM

 

[21William]

I've got ER32 chucks for my MW Lathe and Mill. I've also got ER32 collet blocks and a spinindexer that takes ER32 collets.

There's a lot more stuff in ER32 than any other size so it was a no brainer really, especially as the headstock bore is only 20mm on my MW Lathe.

I bought a little ER20 chuck for the Wood Lathe though as I already had some collets, the bore is only 10mm on the Lathe and the chuck only cost £6.96 posted from HK. I would have got the 32 but it was three times the price and I'm trying to save some money at the moment!

 

[Penpal]

All of us can multi task great to see the way you do.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

I've got ER32 chucks for my MW Lathe and Mill. I've also got ER32 collet blocks and a spinindexer that takes ER32 collets.

There's a lot more stuff in ER32 than any other size so it was a no brainer really, especially as the headstock bore is only 20mm on my MW Lathe.

I bought a little ER20 chuck for the Wood Lathe though as I already had some collets, the bore is only 10mm on the Lathe and the chuck only cost £6.96 posted from HK. I would have got the 32 but it was three times the price and I'm trying to save some money at the moment!

I see I was preaching to the converted.