alpha1
Fellow
I am enjoying learning how to create kitless pens with some modest success. I want to start adding pen clips to my pens could any one advise on suitable sizes to use etc. Is there a rule of thumb as to pen sizes etc.
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Pen clips
- Thread starter alpha1
- Start date
DuncSuss
Full Member
I don't know of a rule, other than "does it look okay?"
Classic fountain pens (such as Parker, Sheaffer, Waterman, Conklin, Esterbrook ...) have often used clips that are shorter than I would expect yet they still look good. I've made a few clips that were longer and/or fatter than looked right when I got done - easy enough to take off and put one that has a better match, or grind it down a bit.
Classic fountain pens (such as Parker, Sheaffer, Waterman, Conklin, Esterbrook ...) have often used clips that are shorter than I would expect yet they still look good. I've made a few clips that were longer and/or fatter than looked right when I got done - easy enough to take off and put one that has a better match, or grind it down a bit.
I’m guessing you’re referring to the size of the gasket ring that a lot of pocket clips have? If not then you can ignore the rest if this…
If so then it really comes down to your pen design.
(Note: there a different ways to do this but my approach is to make a finial with a threaded tenon that passes through the clip gasket ring and screws into the body of the cap. The clip gasket ring is rebated into the cap so it isn’t visible. This approach is what the rest of this reply is based upon).
Of particular importance is the cap diameter, and whether you want the gasket ring to be visible as a feature of the pen or if you want to rebate it and add your own ring, (which is what I do), or have no ring at all.
If you want to have the gasket ring visible as a feature then it’s a bit easier. You just need to make the cap finial tenon the right size to fit through the gasket ring and screw into the cap body. You also need to turn the cap, or that part of it if it’s tapered, to the same diameter as the gasket ring.
If you want to rebate the ring then that’s a little tricker and it’s a case of sitting down with a pen and paper to calculate your tenon size, gasket ring o/d and cap wall thickness at that point. Too thin and there is a risk of it failing (you will need to cut a slot through this wall to allow the bar to pass through). The spring steel clips that I buy from Beaufort apply quite a bit of tension and, although it’s generally up and down pressure, the very nature of clips mean they can be knocked sideways during general use meaning that either side of that slot can’t be too thin.
I’ll be honest It took me a while to get it right. The depth of the rebate needs to be pretty accurate and also the slot needs to be accurate, clean and square as it’s very visible. If too big you get a sloppy clip that moves around. Not good. So be prepared for some failures if you go down this route
.
Cheers
Ash
If so then it really comes down to your pen design.
(Note: there a different ways to do this but my approach is to make a finial with a threaded tenon that passes through the clip gasket ring and screws into the body of the cap. The clip gasket ring is rebated into the cap so it isn’t visible. This approach is what the rest of this reply is based upon).
Of particular importance is the cap diameter, and whether you want the gasket ring to be visible as a feature of the pen or if you want to rebate it and add your own ring, (which is what I do), or have no ring at all.
If you want to have the gasket ring visible as a feature then it’s a bit easier. You just need to make the cap finial tenon the right size to fit through the gasket ring and screw into the cap body. You also need to turn the cap, or that part of it if it’s tapered, to the same diameter as the gasket ring.
If you want to rebate the ring then that’s a little tricker and it’s a case of sitting down with a pen and paper to calculate your tenon size, gasket ring o/d and cap wall thickness at that point. Too thin and there is a risk of it failing (you will need to cut a slot through this wall to allow the bar to pass through). The spring steel clips that I buy from Beaufort apply quite a bit of tension and, although it’s generally up and down pressure, the very nature of clips mean they can be knocked sideways during general use meaning that either side of that slot can’t be too thin.
I’ll be honest It took me a while to get it right. The depth of the rebate needs to be pretty accurate and also the slot needs to be accurate, clean and square as it’s very visible. If too big you get a sloppy clip that moves around. Not good. So be prepared for some failures if you go down this route
.Cheers
Ash
alpha1
Fellow
Thanks.
alpha1
Fellow
I have ordered some clips in different sizes I will have a go once they arrive.