regarding using superglue as a finish

[Grump]

Here we go again, I only use cheap poundland thin ca approx 7 or 8 coats, allow it to dry between coats takes seconds not minutes no need for accelerator.
Ajax to rub it down finishing with toothpaste, keep your fancy expensive finishes nobody has complained about mine.
If I want a wax finish I rub a candle over it and spin it fast to melt it in, no worries init?

 

[bellringer]

How close is too close? It doesn't say on the tin. I sprayed it from at least 8 inches away and the lathe was running. Can it be used on medium CA or just thin?

I normal go about 1 foot back

 

[stevenw1963]

can't do with CA, stinks. Prefer a can of spray lacquer - Chestnut do a range as does Halfords, Fords etc etc. Leaves a nice shiny finish

 

[Buckeye]

I use Poundland thin CA 20 coats with accelerator between coats. The lathe runs about 1500 and I don't spray accelerator at full blast, but just a whisper from 4-6 inches away. I put the CA on fast and positive. I wet sand with MM and finish with Silvo put on with the lathe about 700 any faster and it melts the CA, stop the lathe and let it dry approx 30-60 secs then wipe off with the lathe on. I derived my method from David's at Timberbits.

Peter

 

[Walter]

I never found the need for accelerator. Like Brian says it dries in seconds anyway. Any thin or medium CA will do. I prefer medium.

I also never found the need for BLO, just makes the fumes worse IMHO. I find three or four coats is usually enough.

As for polishing it any fine abrasive will do. Whatever you use first needs to be coarse enough to remove any ridges but not so coarse as to remove the finish (1000 grit or so micromesh or rhynogrip is what I use) My final polish of preference has up to now been burnishing cream but having just tested some Farecla profile 500 and I can see why Alex recommends it. No doubt Brian's toothpaste does the job too. It is after all a fine abrasive.

 

[bellringer]

I never found the need for accelerator. Like Brian says it dries in seconds anyway. Any thin or medium CA will do. I prefer medium.

I also never found the need for BLO, just makes the fumes worse IMHO. I find three or four coats is usually enough.

As for polishing it any fine abrasive will do. Whatever you use first needs to be coarse enough to remove any ridges but not so coarse as to remove the finish (1000 grit or so micromesh or rhynogrip is what I use) My final polish of preference has up to now been burnishing cream but having just tested some Farecla profile 500 and I can see why Alex recommends it. No doubt Brian's toothpaste does the job too. It is after all a fine abrasive.

it is good stuff have you also tried the 300

 

[Penpal]

Following conversation with Pete bI can fully recommend buying Farecla 300 and 500 from him his prices are scorching low on the scale for a top product I never go so many coats of CA .

Peter.

 

[bellringer]

Following conversation with Pete bI can fully recommend buying Farecla 300 and 500 from him his prices are scorching low on the scale for a top product I never go so many coats of CA .

Peter.

Did you buy some off pete in the end then peter

 

[ZuluTiming]

+1 on Farecla 300 and 500. Nicest finish I've seen.

 

[Penpal]

Alex no I did not our peso is down and up like (well I wont say) but the exchange etc I am sounding out local in Australia but so far they start at one litre size, I dont do that much plastic and I find the cut from EEE magic, Brasso superb, Car metal polish excellent so there is no drive need for warp speed on this. Pete was great and I formed my opinion on price on so far comparisons here.

Peter.

 

[Doug]

I never found the need for accelerator. Like Brian says it dries in seconds anyway. Any thin or medium CA will do. I prefer medium.

I also never found the need for BLO, just makes the fumes worse IMHO. I find three or four coats is usually enough.

As for polishing it any fine abrasive will do. Whatever you use first needs to be coarse enough to remove any ridges but not so coarse as to remove the finish (1000 grit or so micromesh or rhynogrip is what I use) My final polish of preference has up to now been burnishing cream but having just tested some Farecla profile 500 and I can see why Alex recommends it. No doubt Brian's toothpaste does the job too. It is after all a fine abrasive.

I do it just as Walter said, but then I would as I've had the pleasure of watching him make & finish a pen & as he made it look so simple with a lovely finish I couldn't see the point of adding more ingredients to the recipe.

 

[Walter]

it is good stuff have you also tried the 300

Yes, I have Alex. It is good stuff too but I prefer a backed abrasive to remove any ridges in the finish. Just a personal choice.

I do it just as Walter said, but then I would as I've had the pleasure of watching him make & finish a pen & as he made it look so simple with a lovely finish I couldn't see the point of adding more ingredients to the recipe.

Thanks Doug. I know my way works, but I also know that it is not the only way, so for anyone trying CA for the first time I would suggest trying out all of the suggested methods until you find what you are most comfortable with.

 

[bellringer]

Yes, I have Alex. It is good stuff too but I prefer a backed abrasive to remove any ridges in the finish. Just a personal choice.



Thanks Doug. I know my way works, but I also know that it is not the only way, so for anyone trying CA for the first time I would suggest trying out all of the suggested methods until you find what you are most comfortable with.

I still use wet and dry to 1000 grit the the 300 and 500

 

[Walter]

I still use wet and dry to 1000 grit the the 300 and 500

Yes, that makes sense.

 

[Grump]

Yes, that makes sense.

It all makes sense working through finer grits to reduce the scratch size is what we do init?
What I find silly and some promote it, is working through the grits of mm then applying some fancy cream called a polish which is courser than the mm.
I have seen this done in demo and shown to great effect, I argued that he hadn't used mm correctly or it would not have been the case.

 

[bellringer]

It all makes sense working through finer grits to reduce the scratch size is what we do init?
What I find silly and some promote it, is working through the grits of mm then applying some fancy cream called a polish which is courser than the mm.
I have seen this done in demo and shown to great effect, I argued that he hadn't used mm correctly or it would not have been the case.

also micro mesh is expensive for what it is

 

[Walter]

It all makes sense working through finer grits to reduce the scratch size is what we do init?
What I find silly and some promote it, is working through the grits of mm then applying some fancy cream called a polish which is courser than the mm.
I have seen this done in demo and shown to great effect, I argued that he hadn't used mm correctly or it would not have been the case.

True, that is indeed entirely pointless.

 

[turnaround360]

Rip Russ Fairfield you are a legend.