What grit ranges do you use?

[silver]

I use Freres Nordin cellulose sanding sealer

PG

Yep, then you use sanding sealer don't you..:idontknow:

That's what I said, if it says sanding sealer on the tin then it's sanding sealer.

 

[silver]

Sorry Pierre, just re read you post and can see you meant You won't forget to tell them to use sanding sealer..

I will go back to bed now..

 

[silver]

The best sandpapers are the Hermes Silicon carbide

Hint 1: Use scissors to cut sandpaper into approx 25mm strips for use on the lathe. (Never tear sandpaper)
Hint 2: If you are changing from a light to a dark wood or vice versa use fresh sandpaper
Hint 3: Dark resins or woods such as ebony show scratches more from earlier grits unless you do the job properly
Hint 5: There is no need to use a lot of pressure and make the surface hot. Let the sandpaper do its work with a light touch.
Rod

I couldn't agree more Rod, however I don't believe that the stuff Axi sells is the best, Yes I have used it and it's overrated and no better than some of the off the shelf silicon carbide papers.

Why use sanding sealer ? What exactly does it do ?

Curious why spin and sand and then sand horizontally ? why not just sand horizontally in the first place ?

Microcrystalline polish is a wax isn't it ? surely that would wear off pretty quick with use ..

Not trying to upset anyone, just genuine questions

You are not upsetting anyone.

Pierre answered what I would have said, so I don't need to add to it. (Not that I read it properly in the first place tho)

 

[Dalboy]

I find that this paper is good just a shame that they don't hold different grits other than the four shown

 

[Penpal]

So the bottom line is sand seal go through the grits wipe at every stage and Meths for naturally oily woods, then the 64 dollar ? finishing coats.

Peter.

 

[Pierre]

Sorry Pierre, just re read you post and can see you meant You won't forget to tell them to use sanding sealer..

I will go back to bed now..

.

 

[Pierre]

I find that this paper is good just a shame that they don't hold different grits other than the four shown

But aren't they there to complement the abranet range being made by the same company? I discovered that the abranet range could only be bought locally down to 240 grit (Basically 90% of the woodworkers around me make roof beams so they don't sand down very far) so I bought the foam backed version of the one that you are showing from 320 to 600 and lo and behold it sticks to the Velcro pad!! http://www.mirka.com/uk/uk/UK_TOOLS/UK_For-Hand-Sanding/#/ .

But if you look here http://www.mirka.com/uk/uk/UK_ABRASIVES/UK_By-Application/#/WoodProcessing you can get such a range as to be astounded and your local dealer can just order it in well my roofing supplier can at the normal prices.

Sorry Lucy we seem to have hijacked your thread a bit

PG

 

[Bammer]

Thanks for the answers, I pretty much knew about the sanding sealer and I do use it just not all the time, perhaps I will now

Which brings me on to why spun then by the grain? essentially if you sand whilst turning slowly you act as a random orbital sander but not excessively, once you have gone down the large grain work you would (I would I mean) then sand with fine grain with the grain in order to avoid any further cross grain scratching and also to get in between the grain.

PG

Still not so sure about this, I stopped sanding while spinning ages ago, seemed I was chasing scratches, now I most only sand horizontally through the grits. Works for me. I also get to see how the paper is working. I also use Hermes 180 if i need it but mostly 240, 320, 400. and then abranet but only 400 & 600. I do like the rhyno grip 800 & 1200 to finish off.

It's amazing how many different ideas and ways there are to do things. Be boring if we all did the same

 

[Scots Bill]

Well Brad, when turning spindle work, pens! Sand with the lathe turning (slowly) too fast does not let the abrasive do its work and will clog sooner. I am only speaking of wood. After each grade, I stop the lathe and give a bit of a rub with the grain, usually horizontally, this if any scratch marks are left they go with the grain of the timber, so are less noticeable. Also it get any fibres that might have been hiding along the grain to come out later and spoil the finish.

 

[Scots Bill]

Well Lucy, I did warn you! We all do things a bit differently but they all work or we would not! As I said get as good a finish from your tools, I find a skew leaves the smoothest surface. Then only use grits that are finer than that. Go down as far as YOU like. I sometimes use steel wool. Good quality, 0000 is the finest, I have 000 and 00. On the plastics wet and dry are good as the guys are saying. Nobody is wrong, just play with what you can get and see what results you get. Good luck.