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What is the best wood for turning pens?
- Thread starter CGS01
- Start date
Pierre
Fellow
I use a cheap pillar drill with an engineer's drill vice and a square hand held on the vice for all my 7mm - 10mm after that the lathe. Draw a cross diagonally on the end from corner to corner to get the centre then tap a nail into the centre so the drill can use it to set in. then drill slowly on the pillar drill or on the lather 900 rpm should do and as you get to the end push in slower to avoid breakout. Don't drill first then turn the blank around you will never hit dead on. Unless you are drilling for a Celtic knot or some other precise line on the pen blank it doesn't matter whether the hole is dead straight down the middle. I make many pens out of grape vine trunks all wobbly and hand held drilled, so long as the hole itself is straight through and there is enough wood to turn no-one will ever know if you drilled straight in the blank.
I use an independent 4 jaw for drilling so I can adjust the blanks position, I drove large metal cutting lathes with them for a very long time and made my own adaptor for a suitably small chuck to fit on the wood lathe.Hi all,
A quick question and please excuse me if it’s an obvious answer that I’ve missed - newbie pen turner, it’s all still a bit of a mystery.
So I’ve had issues drilling blanks and getting a satisfactory precise hole, centred etc. with my cheap pillar & drill assembly. I then decided I’d place the blanks in the lathe and drill. This provided much better results with a far more precise hole - little or no movement of the drill bit. However I wasn’t getting as near perfectly centred holes due to my placing of the blank in the chuck.
So I’m now thinking, place the blanks in the chuck, turn the last 2.5cm or so to round, place that end in the chuck, and then drill?
Is this obvious, are there any issues I’m going to encounter or should I be doing this anyway OR do I bite the bullet and invest a few hundred ££’s in a decent pillar drill? If it’s the latter are there any recommendations on that too please?
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Colin.
Re your original question, wood from hobby suppliers can be expensive, off-cuts from larger suppliers are often cheaper, my last 50x50x500mm of Zebrano cost me a tenner as it was an off-cut, cut down lengthways into four ~21x21mm lengths it's good for quite a few pens. The gifted Cherry, Holly and other timbers from an old friend who cut some of it 35 years ago are great, but take a lot more prep.
sisabra
Apprentice Member
I have been going to my local Men In Sheds, 3 lathes plus some experienced turners willing to share their knowledge. Brought a bargain bag of blanks from Bedford Saw (they do woodturning blanks etc, very helpful people) , made so far about 15 pens for the family. Worth checking out local MIS near you.
Lancelot
Full Member
Hi Colin,
Im new to the forum too today, as people said i used a old chair that was Oak for one of my first pens wood that costs you nothing is bountiful.
I had this piece of old red wood that i wanted to try out so i cut a length square as it was about 15mm thick. started sawing it on a manual miter saw and the smell was absolutely beautiful, like cinnamon or spices ?
anyway when i finished with clearing the sawdust which looked like dried blood ?? the smell was really beautiful, but my face started to burn, lips tingling as if i just rubbed vics vaporub all over my face !!!!
a cold water wash and a google of sandal wood ?? i came across the wood database https://www.wood-database.com/ and found it to be Cocobolo, a true rosewood and a very naughty but beautiful rosewood. As a new pen maker i found this site very eye opening, woods i have and still never heard of is a must for any new turner pen or otherwise i would strongly recommend you take a look at the allergies and rosewoods infract look at all woods in general you need a respirator safety specks and i use a old leather apron too.
Also someone mentioned one or two poisonous woods these you need if you have it a vacuum cleaner on as much as possible, Yew, Laburnum, tambootie and another i cant remember ALL are toxic or a direct toxin so please look them up.
Wenge, panga panga, tanga tanga all need to use thin gloves something i wouldnt do really but if you get a splinter and these three do cause it to go septic.
look on youtube and you will find loads of clips i prefer the ones just with music no talking lol as they can get annoying ;-)
sorry its a long one but do look at the wood database and use it as a reference to any new woods you come across, it also tells you about the hardness (Janka scale) which is great to know if your going to get beaten up by African blackwood or African leadwood ( two of the hardest woods i have used)
another tip, i use a morse taper drill bit in my tailstock to drill my blanks on the lathe. if you have two morse taper dead centres, put one in the headstock and one in the tailstock and bring them together !! both points should go point to point, if one is out then you need to adjust the tailstock, that could be whats causing the drill to go out of true ?? hope it makes some sense im sure others will help out too.
all the best
L
Im new to the forum too today, as people said i used a old chair that was Oak for one of my first pens wood that costs you nothing is bountiful.
I had this piece of old red wood that i wanted to try out so i cut a length square as it was about 15mm thick. started sawing it on a manual miter saw and the smell was absolutely beautiful, like cinnamon or spices ?
anyway when i finished with clearing the sawdust which looked like dried blood ?? the smell was really beautiful, but my face started to burn, lips tingling as if i just rubbed vics vaporub all over my face !!!!
a cold water wash and a google of sandal wood ?? i came across the wood database https://www.wood-database.com/ and found it to be Cocobolo, a true rosewood and a very naughty but beautiful rosewood. As a new pen maker i found this site very eye opening, woods i have and still never heard of is a must for any new turner pen or otherwise i would strongly recommend you take a look at the allergies and rosewoods infract look at all woods in general you need a respirator safety specks and i use a old leather apron too.
Also someone mentioned one or two poisonous woods these you need if you have it a vacuum cleaner on as much as possible, Yew, Laburnum, tambootie and another i cant remember ALL are toxic or a direct toxin so please look them up.
Wenge, panga panga, tanga tanga all need to use thin gloves something i wouldnt do really but if you get a splinter and these three do cause it to go septic.
look on youtube and you will find loads of clips i prefer the ones just with music no talking lol as they can get annoying ;-)
sorry its a long one but do look at the wood database and use it as a reference to any new woods you come across, it also tells you about the hardness (Janka scale) which is great to know if your going to get beaten up by African blackwood or African leadwood ( two of the hardest woods i have used)
another tip, i use a morse taper drill bit in my tailstock to drill my blanks on the lathe. if you have two morse taper dead centres, put one in the headstock and one in the tailstock and bring them together !! both points should go point to point, if one is out then you need to adjust the tailstock, that could be whats causing the drill to go out of true ?? hope it makes some sense im sure others will help out too.
all the best
L
CGS01
Full Member
Hello all,
Many thanks for all the responses - hobbymad, Pierre, Neiljohn, sisabra & most recently Lancelot.
Lots of interesting points, some scary ones too but all most welcome thankyou.
Grapevine trunks - that sounds interesting.
The offcuts from larger suppliers definitely makes sense.
Men in Sheds sadly was a bit disappointing. I emailed my local group as indicated on Google but I didn’t even get a response.
As an aside I was put onto MIS by a fellow & his wife we met while on holiday. He raved about it. His was well attended & situated in an old chapel in a country village & apparently they spent more time drinking tea and eating chocolate hobnobs than turning wood. 
My local MIS was located in a local prison! 
Enough said. 
The wood data base is something I’d not considered. I’ll check it out. Thankfully though I am set up with a vacuum arrangement and have a good quality respirator too.
Checking the headstock and tail stock for alignment again is something I’d not thought of but so obvious once it’s pointed out - that’s tomorrow’s first task.
Last question (for the moment), how do you square your pen blanks?
A jig & sanding disc?
On the lathe & sanding disc.
Trimming tool?
Again, any assistance is much appreciated.
Regards,
Colin.
Many thanks for all the responses - hobbymad, Pierre, Neiljohn, sisabra & most recently Lancelot.
Lots of interesting points, some scary ones too but all most welcome thankyou.
Grapevine trunks - that sounds interesting.
The offcuts from larger suppliers definitely makes sense.
Men in Sheds sadly was a bit disappointing. I emailed my local group as indicated on Google but I didn’t even get a response.
As an aside I was put onto MIS by a fellow & his wife we met while on holiday. He raved about it. His was well attended & situated in an old chapel in a country village & apparently they spent more time drinking tea and eating chocolate hobnobs than turning wood. My local MIS was located in a local prison! Enough said. The wood data base is something I’d not considered. I’ll check it out. Thankfully though I am set up with a vacuum arrangement and have a good quality respirator too.
Checking the headstock and tail stock for alignment again is something I’d not thought of but so obvious once it’s pointed out - that’s tomorrow’s first task.
Last question (for the moment), how do you square your pen blanks?
A jig & sanding disc?
On the lathe & sanding disc.
Trimming tool?
Again, any assistance is much appreciated.
Regards,
Colin.
Lancelot
Full Member
Hi Colin,
It's all food for thought matey, trimming is the one task I don't like. I use a barrel timing tool.
Have used it in a pillar drill but it always used to burn or darken the end, which is something you don't want to do.
I started on the lathe in a chuck on the pen jaws and had the trimmer in another chuck and used that. But that's not a good way to do it too. I have thought about sanding but again I don't have a circular sander and I'd have to fabricate a jig to ensure squaring it off.
So I'm really in the same dilemma as you matey.
Will get there I the end though ;-)
Lance
It's all food for thought matey, trimming is the one task I don't like. I use a barrel timing tool.
Have used it in a pillar drill but it always used to burn or darken the end, which is something you don't want to do.
I started on the lathe in a chuck on the pen jaws and had the trimmer in another chuck and used that. But that's not a good way to do it too. I have thought about sanding but again I don't have a circular sander and I'd have to fabricate a jig to ensure squaring it off.
So I'm really in the same dilemma as you matey.
Will get there I the end though ;-)
Lance
CGS01
Full Member
Lance,
Yes the barrel trimmer isn’t my favourite tool either.
I found this video last night, this looks useful.
This is the link to the supplier.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Punches-Scribes/Transfer-Punch-Sets
Not a huge outlay in the scheme of things. I may give it a go.
Colin.
Yes the barrel trimmer isn’t my favourite tool either.
I found this video last night, this looks useful.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Punches-Scribes/Transfer-Punch-Sets
Not a huge outlay in the scheme of things. I may give it a go.
Colin.
Lancelot
Full Member
Hi Colin.
I like John's videos, he's a no nonsense no faf guy. Bought a few items from him Inc byron pens. Not seen that video before but it's a good one and I'm going to give it a go. I do have transfer punches and a soft arbour. Both my lathes are Morse taper 1 and I think I might have some thing for my metals lathe ?
Pm me Colin and I will make you up a pack of blanks that I love.
Thanks too as I have found your post very informative and interesting
All the best mate
Lance
I like John's videos, he's a no nonsense no faf guy. Bought a few items from him Inc byron pens. Not seen that video before but it's a good one and I'm going to give it a go. I do have transfer punches and a soft arbour. Both my lathes are Morse taper 1 and I think I might have some thing for my metals lathe ?
Pm me Colin and I will make you up a pack of blanks that I love.
Thanks too as I have found your post very informative and interesting
All the best mate
Lance
alan morrison
Fellow
I use a table saw sled to get up really close and finish off on a disc sander.
Curly
Graduate Member
I have a 12"/6"x36" disc/belt sander that I use to square the ends of blanks. Since you don't have one the easiest is to make a version of Rick's offset jig over on the IAP vender forum. https://www.penturners.org/threads/ricks-custom-made-tools-pdf-catalog.180009/#post-2239176 It lets you use your lathe with faceplate mounted sandpaper and a transfer punch in the jig held in the tailstock. If buying one is too much or politically bugs you there is no reason you can't use the design as a basis for making your own. It could be made out of wood, plywood or a Corian type material (solid surface countertop) easily if you have a table saw or a router table. Mens clubs near you have the tools and perhaps there is a forum member close to you that could help you make one.
Pete
Pete
CGS01
Full Member
Morning all,
Thanks to Lance, Alan & Curly for the help - always appreciated.
So ……
I’ve ordered a transfer punch set from arceurotrade and frankly they can’t arrive soon enough. Yesterday I attempted to finish a pen with a CA coating and sanding with the micro mesh pads. I was really pleased with the finish starting with the 1500 and ending with the 12000 with a final buffing of car polish. The result was spectacular - I’ve no idea what the wood was, maybe a dark oak, I’d recycled an old writing box for several blanks. I hear that wood database calling!
However, and there’s always a “however” at my stage of turning ……. I managed to crack the CA finish at both the nib end and clip. I think that I made two basic errors. Firstly I didn’t square the ends of the blanks properly after applying the CA. I did lightly sand on a flat surface but there may have still been slight protrusions of CA (hence the arrival of the transfer punch set is eagerly awaited). Also I may have applied to much pressure when assembling the pen in the press. I also applied several layers of thick CA then two or three of thin. I think I did this in the wrong order?
Anyway, it’s all a learning curve and I’m only using cheap pen kits and recycled wood, so no real issue and the experience is useful.
As always I’m happy to get others thoughts on what I’ve done and more importantly what I should have done, so if you’ve any suggestions I’m happy to hear them.
At some point, when the competence has improved I’m looking to purchasing some better quality rollerball kits, pencil kits and of course fountain pen kits, they’re the ones that really excite me.
I’ve been retired 4yrs and 4 days and really wished I’d found this hobby then not 4 months ago - it is so therapeutic (despite being slightly heavier on the wallet than anticipated). At least the Mrs is starting to accept the “I’m just popping in the garage for an hour” and reappear 5hrs later, dusty but happy! 
Regards,
Colin.
Thanks to Lance, Alan & Curly for the help - always appreciated.
So ……
I’ve ordered a transfer punch set from arceurotrade and frankly they can’t arrive soon enough. Yesterday I attempted to finish a pen with a CA coating and sanding with the micro mesh pads. I was really pleased with the finish starting with the 1500 and ending with the 12000 with a final buffing of car polish. The result was spectacular - I’ve no idea what the wood was, maybe a dark oak, I’d recycled an old writing box for several blanks. I hear that wood database calling!
However, and there’s always a “however” at my stage of turning ……. I managed to crack the CA finish at both the nib end and clip. I think that I made two basic errors. Firstly I didn’t square the ends of the blanks properly after applying the CA. I did lightly sand on a flat surface but there may have still been slight protrusions of CA (hence the arrival of the transfer punch set is eagerly awaited). Also I may have applied to much pressure when assembling the pen in the press. I also applied several layers of thick CA then two or three of thin. I think I did this in the wrong order?
Anyway, it’s all a learning curve and I’m only using cheap pen kits and recycled wood, so no real issue and the experience is useful.
As always I’m happy to get others thoughts on what I’ve done and more importantly what I should have done, so if you’ve any suggestions I’m happy to hear them.
At some point, when the competence has improved I’m looking to purchasing some better quality rollerball kits, pencil kits and of course fountain pen kits, they’re the ones that really excite me.
I’ve been retired 4yrs and 4 days and really wished I’d found this hobby then not 4 months ago - it is so therapeutic (despite being slightly heavier on the wallet than anticipated
). At least the Mrs is starting to accept the “I’m just popping in the garage for an hour” and reappear 5hrs later, dusty but happy! Regards,
Colin.
Lancelot
Full Member
Hi Colin,
Have posted you a pack of ten different woods to try and a European kit and bushings. I use a sharp round nose scraper as its not as aggressive as a skew or gouge. The Lead wood and snorkeling are quite hard but I hope you like them.
Lance
Have posted you a pack of ten different woods to try and a European kit and bushings. I use a sharp round nose scraper as its not as aggressive as a skew or gouge. The Lead wood and snorkeling are quite hard but I hope you like them.
Lance
TheOldMan
Full Member
I have turned about 60 pens maybe more about 20 timber and the rest acrylic. i do not know if you can even get some of these woods in the UK probably not but if you can, Silky Oak lacewood has a beautiful pattered finish, and so does Hairy Oak. I have made quite a few slimline pens, then I made a slimline click pen for my daughter. I was very disappointed in how small the ink tube was. My daughter loves her Silky Oak pen but I need to keep replacing the ink cartridges. I made a few cigar pens they look lovely in either wood or acrylic. and also I have made quite a few Sierra twist and click pens. Some soft woods are not so easy to turn the slightest pressure and you have taken off to much especially after making several acrylic pens. To me it is about control of myself in achieving the size the shape and the finish I want before I start. In the beginning I settled for how it turned out. Now I am far stricter and careful. I also made some Gordian knot pens and a mixture of wood and acrylic to use up some offcuts. I would sell them for $75 for specials, Sierra's for $50 and slim-line's for $30. If someone says they are expensive I point them to Officeworks where they can buy a whole box which works out at 50c each. If I went to a market I would put my price up not down. Also it is very hard to let go of some of my pens that I particularly like. I should have included a picture or two but I am never that organised. Have fun. I cannot think of anything better than owning 100 beautiful pens in beautiful display boxes. It is my statement I made them Yes all of them. Have a lovely day.
TheOldMan
Full Member
CGS01
Full Member
Alan, many thanks for the response. I was just about to Google Gordian knots and then spotted your update.
I’ve made several Celtic knot slimline pens. I’m using the cheap pen sets from Amazon while I hone my skills and get my competence up. Then I’ll be heading for the great quality fountain pen kits and the finer woods. I’ll look out for your suggestions otherwise it’s a trip to Oz and smuggling!
Have a great day / evening.
I’ve made several Celtic knot slimline pens. I’m using the cheap pen sets from Amazon while I hone my skills and get my competence up. Then I’ll be heading for the great quality fountain pen kits and the finer woods. I’ll look out for your suggestions otherwise it’s a trip to Oz and smuggling!
Have a great day / evening.
Lancelot
Full Member
Hi Colin,
Your celtic knot pens are awesome, it's something couldn't do but I have just looked at the gordian knot and that looks impossible to my dyslexic brain. Post the pics of your celtic knots matey. I have to be honest and say I've not heard of Hairy oak and Silky oak.
I do like Oak pens though and have made mainly English or European and Bog oak is lovely to turn especially Irish bog oak. I turned a Irish bog oak for a work colleagues PTSD charity. Oak is a beautiful wood and I'd love to see the Oak lacewood I bet the figuring is awesome.
Lance
Your celtic knot pens are awesome, it's something couldn't do but I have just looked at the gordian knot and that looks impossible to my dyslexic brain. Post the pics of your celtic knots matey. I have to be honest and say I've not heard of Hairy oak and Silky oak.
I do like Oak pens though and have made mainly English or European and Bog oak is lovely to turn especially Irish bog oak. I turned a Irish bog oak for a work colleagues PTSD charity. Oak is a beautiful wood and I'd love to see the Oak lacewood I bet the figuring is awesome.
Lance
CGS01
Full Member
Hello fellow wood turning colleagues,
I recently purchased, turned and assembled a Lock n Load Bolt Action Rifle Pencil kit, however I cannot get the pencil to function correctly. When depressing the bolt action the lead does not extend out of the nib and the bolt action does not fully depress into the lock position.
I thought it may be due to the lead being broken and jamming with another length of lead but I have emptied the lead tube and replaced with a new full length lead. However the same problem existed. I have dismantled the pen, checked for blockages etc., reassembled it but still have the same issue.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what is wrong, what I’ve done incorrectly and how it can be rectified please?
Many thanks.
Regards,
Colin.
I recently purchased, turned and assembled a Lock n Load Bolt Action Rifle Pencil kit, however I cannot get the pencil to function correctly. When depressing the bolt action the lead does not extend out of the nib and the bolt action does not fully depress into the lock position.
I thought it may be due to the lead being broken and jamming with another length of lead but I have emptied the lead tube and replaced with a new full length lead. However the same problem existed. I have dismantled the pen, checked for blockages etc., reassembled it but still have the same issue.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what is wrong, what I’ve done incorrectly and how it can be rectified please?
Many thanks.
Regards,
Colin.
BoppaGeorge
Apprentice Member
I agree with the idea that you practice with any spare cut off you can find. Stay with harder woods. They may be harder to do but softer wood like pine tends to fuzz and require more sanding which, I know, is everybody's favorite step. My favorites are birch, cherry and walnut. If you buy extra tubes and have the bushings for a favorite pen, just turn the blank, finish it, and put it aside. That way you can experiment with shape as well as finishing. You can always go back and use the turned tubes when you buy your next kit. then the new tube is still available for more experimenting. Enjoy the experience. Don't worry about the mistakes or the shattered barrel when turning. I needed 2 buckthorn barrels and had 3 shatter on me before I got what I needed.Just clean off the tube and start again. It happens to all of us. Welcome to the club!
sisabra
Apprentice Member
Only turned around 20 pens for the family, mostly different woods with 3 resins thrown in to the mix, but so far ebony has given me the most pleasure to turn. Definitely going to try more of that in the future.