Achieving success with melamine as a finish

[Chisel_Wizz]

Thank you for taking the time to write out your method! I had tried to collate this information from previous posts you have made on the subject - but there was more than a few pieces of information there that I had not gathered. Will definitely be using this, thanks again!

 

[wm460]

I'm pretty sure abranet is abranet, but I buy mine in boxes of 50 in sheet form rather than disk form. I get mine from a local tool company in Inverness, which is the best value I've found, but you can also get it from Turner's Retreat and a few other places - not much help to you in Australia I know. Ebay is generally the most expensive way possible to buy it, because all they do is buy a box of 50 then split it up and sell it in small quantities for more than they paid for it, so it's worth doing a bit of research and shopping around.

On the face of it, it does seem very pricey stuff, but it lasts much longer than any paper or fabric backed abrasives I've ever come across. Having said that, you don't have to use abranet - that's just my personal choice of abrasive. If it does a good job, whatever you use now will be just as good.

I have been looking on and off for years ever I first heard of it.
First tie I have ever seen it a an affordable price, BUT the postage is

4 X MIRKA Abranet 77mm abrasive sanding discs (pack of 10 pads)
1 X pad saver

Subtotal (5 items) AU $37.00
Posting AU $37.00
Total AU $74.00

Oh well keep looking.

 

[Phil Dart]

I have been looking on and off for years ever I first heard of it.
First tie I have ever seen it a an affordable price, BUT the postage is

4 X MIRKA Abranet 77mm abrasive sanding discs (pack of 10 pads)
1 X pad saver

Subtotal (5 items) AU $37.00
Posting AU $37.00
Total AU $74.00

Oh well keep looking.

Australian Industrial Abrasives | Woodworking Abrasives – Best Abrasives

 

[L33]

Hi Phil...first attempt at your finishing method. I've a way to go...but getting there.

View attachment 32677

 

[bigbob]

Thats a good looking Pen and well presented Lee

 

[L33]

Possibly more aimed at Phil as he seems to be the main man for melamine finishes, or Walter, but having tried to get a good finish with melamine on my last few pens, I'm still struggling to get that perfect finish. One thing I've noticed is that when disassembling the newly melamine coated blank from the bushes, the melamine on the ends is a little stick and wipe offable...which shows just how long this stuff can take to go off.

I'm in no rush to make some pens, so my thought is to follow the Phil method and get the best possible finish. Apparently this stuff takes 28 days to fully cure so I'm wondering if perhaps after 28 days it can be put back on the lathe for a little de nib work, possibly with the micro mesh?

When using ca I get an unbelievably smooth shiny finish...but mainly after sanding to 12000 grit. This isn't possible straight away with the melamine as it's too soft initially. I'm therefore wondering if 28 days after applying it could be put through the same micro mesh process as the ca...but having little experience with melamine I've no idea if this would actually work.

Be interesting to get a few thoughts on this...I've simply no idea what the difference is between freshly applied melamine and 28 day old melamine is.

 

[bigbob]

I do not know the answer to leaving the Melamine for 28 days Lee think that will be Phils or Walters domain as you say. I did have a go at using Melamine yesterday on half a slimline pen the other half had a celtic knot which exploded on me while turning so turned the other half between centres and tried Phils method. Apart from the fact that I did not have the kind of paper Phil uses so used the rougher side of greasproof paper and was pleased with the result apart from the Melonine went on a bit lumpy due to I suspect the properties of the paper but the blank was almost as glossy as ca and at the very least can see that it is a usable alternative or choice of finish to ca. The fumes of the CA do not bother me so much as they are vented away from me by my dust collection system so will use it from time to time.

I think it is good to try other finishes and methods until you find the one that suits you. Hope to find some single ply tissue tomorrow and carry on with Phils method until I have perfected it then will post my creation on here.

 

[21William]

Nice article Phil thanks for taking the time to prepare it. May I suggest though that next time you try a three column layout as it's far easier to read, particularly on electronic devices. If you look at some of Walters articles you'll see what I mean.

 

[bigbob]

I managed to get some blue tissue a roll was given to me to try FOC while at the local emporium. To try and follow Phils method I purchased Abranet from 180-600 the sand sealer mixed as Phil suggests I have had for some time as with the Melamine. I have a block of Zebrano which I resawed some of for pen blanks so made 2 Siera pens the top gold one was finished with ca the second was done to Phils recipe for Melamine finish. So first observation (and nothing to do with Phils instructions but everything to do with my learning curve) is Abranet takes a lot more wood off than cloth backed sandpaper so I need to leave a bit more wood onboard before I finish with Abranet. The second observation is the pen comes out a litle lighter with Melamine but might be my technique in either finish but I am pleased with the result with the Melamine it gives a satin finish and after trying it out will be making pens with Melamine finish and ca.

Top pen ca

Bottom pen Melamine the top pen is slightly blured due to DOF and the fact I am a numpty for having the lens wide open

 

[bigbob]

Sorry photo never uploaded 2nd try:-

View attachment 32744

 

[fortress]

After reading your article on melamine finishing Phil, I took the plunge and purchased all of the items you mentioned. Following your instructions step by step I found at the end, the result was as stated, a smooth satin finish that looked like natural wood. Now, two questions please, can you apply the melamine lacquer over water slide decals and stamps, and if so, do you attach the stamps/ decals before or after sanding sealer? Thank you once again Phil for your instruction sheets.

 

[Phil Dart]

I've never tried to put it over a decal John, so I can't give you an answer based on experience, but I would have thought that it probably wouldn't work. The thickness of the melamine finish is probably less than the thickness of the decal at a guess, so you're going to end up with a ridge I would think.

As to what you stick on the decal with - no idea. There are those with much more experience and expertise in that area than me, so hopefully one of them will pop along soon to shed some light.

 

[Penpal]

I'm pretty sure abranet is abranet, but I buy mine in boxes of 50 in sheet form rather than disk form. I get mine from a local tool company in Inverness, which is the best value I've found, but you can also get it from Turner's Retreat and a few other places - not much help to you in Australia I know. Ebay is generally the most expensive way possible to buy it, because all they do is buy a box of 50 then split it up and sell it in small quantities for more than they paid for it, so it's worth doing a bit of research and shopping around.

On the face of it, it does seem very pricey stuff, but it lasts much longer than any paper or fabric backed abrasives I've ever come across. Having said that, you don't have to use abranet - that's just my personal choice of abrasive. If it does a good job, whatever you use now will be just as good.

I use Mirka Abranet choosing the fluffy backed one its easiest to use, I bought 250 sheets in boxes at the visiting Working for Wood Show late last year. I am a walking advocate of this material but I( still give certain blanks a hurry up with 2000 grit wet and dry used dry only. Amortising Abranet it comes out favourably IMHO.

Peter.

 

[fortress]

Thanks for that Phil, I'll do some experimenting.

 

[wm460]

I printed your Tutorial out this morning, then about an hour later my phone beeped, I had a look and it had downloaded on to the phone.
It wouldn't do that the other day.

 

[Walter]

I have been using melamine lacquer for a while now Phil, but only this morning did I read your tutorial in detail and picked up a couple of tips from it that have improved my technique and will save me time in the future.

I had used the burnishing with shavings method before, but never thought about using it on pens (DUH!) it does make a difference. I also like your technique of using a separate cloth/tissue for burnishing (I use non-woven safety cloth).

Your method makes finishing with melamine almost as quick and easy as finishing with the dreaded friction polish.

I may still stick with spraying acrylic lacquer when I want a really high gloss, but for a finish that looks natural and is hard wearing melamine is hard to beat and your tutorial has just made it easier than ever. Thanks for sharing it with us.

 

[shoe]

well, it's the best advice I've had to date. I tried it out, as I don't want to use CA, and it worked well. Took the pen to turning club. They all seamed very interested in the method.
All the best, Jestyn

 

[Bill Mooney]

I've been using Phil's method for a while now & it works a treat. If I don't have enough shavings to burnish with I use a small brown paper bag which burnishes well.

 

[GSteer]

First attempt today, got tissue stuck on the cap on the first application of lacquer, got dust stuck on the body during sanding sealer. Sand back and retry tomorrow.

 

[Penpal]

Huge volumes of help for Melamine its application, nature of etc I am amazed at the difficulties found in the UK for finishing Olive wood it has proved so easy for me always. The Olive over here I always store twice as long as any other timber it is son slow to dry naturally.

Peter.