That's a very kind offer Derek.
One day I shall create an elaborate excuse such as this as a ruse to visit you and your workshop. I'll bring biscuits, even chocolate coated. I'm based Tonbridge way.
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Can you use metric equivalent drill on an omega
- Thread starter Paul
- Start date
That's a very kind offer Derek.
One day I shall create an elaborate excuse such as this as a ruse to visit you and your workshop. I'll bring biscuits, even chocolate coated. I'm based Tonbridge way.
I agree with Walter in this one...
Simples.....If you don't have any drill gauges then use a vernier gauge, if you do t have one of them then use a micrometer.
If you don't have one of them then drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood to see how it fits.. but that won't guarantee a good fit, it all depends on what material you are drill oi g through as well,. So good luck..
If you use epoxy some times a slightly bigger drill size is best, that's only my view and not a rule. So don't jump down me throat that it's wrong.. It works for me.
TBH if you haven't got any of the measuring bits and bobs then you need to look at getting a digital vernier at the very least..again OMO so don't shoot me..
As an investment over the years between me an me dad we have brought all the drill bits fro 5mm up to 16mm in 0.1 increments.. works for me..
Simples.....If you don't have any drill gauges then use a vernier gauge, if you do t have one of them then use a micrometer.
If you don't have one of them then drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood to see how it fits.. but that won't guarantee a good fit, it all depends on what material you are drill oi g through as well,. So good luck..
If you use epoxy some times a slightly bigger drill size is best, that's only my view and not a rule. So don't jump down me throat that it's wrong.. It works for me.
TBH if you haven't got any of the measuring bits and bobs then you need to look at getting a digital vernier at the very least..again OMO so don't shoot me..
As an investment over the years between me an me dad we have brought all the drill bits fro 5mm up to 16mm in 0.1 increments.. works for me..
I am now slightly overwhelmed
You don't need an excuse but if you really want one then you have to visit Axminter at Sittingbourne (Well Bobbing) and then to Stile and Bates just outside Dover, I just so happen to be half way between the two
.You would be most welcome.
I can always pop them in the post
Penpal
Grand Master
Ed a question with that big set by measurement how close to named sizes are those drills the very most accurate drills I can buy where I live and can measure are always out so I have been buying by measurement just under, just about and over for vital needs.
In deed I went on a world wide quest for a specified step drill to be ground to act as a reamer facer on brasses internal for slimlines and blanks after glueing the firm in America guaranteed .0005 accuracy could not get within a bulls roar of their catalogue guarantee, I dealt with the owner of this famous company Fuller, innumerable phone calls my mate providing from north America near Seattle brass sleeves as go no go guage a complete answer to their diagram sizes from me three times useless results, far too many phone calls all to have a back up for what was sold as routine a step drill I bought from pen kit suppliers when Slimlines were the only kits available made from HS Steel I have been using ever since on every pen of this type. In my crowded shop I feared mislaying the one I have it is still a close fit on the main stem still lightly reams blank in the ends of the brass I use it mounted in a handle by hand.It also acts as go no go guage for brasses I check before each blank use and reject tight or undersize brasses.
Being anal about my turning can be painful measuring drills across so much hit and miss if I rely on the suppliers so far the most accurate is my bearing supplier on one occasion having bought a hubba dubba super dooper hepped up mandrel saver from a main supplier in America the bearings used by them were innacurate they stopped production and sales as a result of my info on the correct bearing my guy recommended for months to rectify before sales resumed. THe name of the firm stays anonymous but pushing the limits is a bummer along the way.Now I just do the best I can trying to fit in sometimes the waves swamp me like a Sunami.
Peter.
In deed I went on a world wide quest for a specified step drill to be ground to act as a reamer facer on brasses internal for slimlines and blanks after glueing the firm in America guaranteed .0005 accuracy could not get within a bulls roar of their catalogue guarantee, I dealt with the owner of this famous company Fuller, innumerable phone calls my mate providing from north America near Seattle brass sleeves as go no go guage a complete answer to their diagram sizes from me three times useless results, far too many phone calls all to have a back up for what was sold as routine a step drill I bought from pen kit suppliers when Slimlines were the only kits available made from HS Steel I have been using ever since on every pen of this type. In my crowded shop I feared mislaying the one I have it is still a close fit on the main stem still lightly reams blank in the ends of the brass I use it mounted in a handle by hand.It also acts as go no go guage for brasses I check before each blank use and reject tight or undersize brasses.
Being anal about my turning can be painful measuring drills across so much hit and miss if I rely on the suppliers so far the most accurate is my bearing supplier on one occasion having bought a hubba dubba super dooper hepped up mandrel saver from a main supplier in America the bearings used by them were innacurate they stopped production and sales as a result of my info on the correct bearing my guy recommended for months to rectify before sales resumed. THe name of the firm stays anonymous but pushing the limits is a bummer along the way.Now I just do the best I can trying to fit in sometimes the waves swamp me like a Sunami.
Peter.
Walter
Fellow
You can question it as much as you like Peter. That will not alter the facts.
Poor fit is poor fit, no matter how you try to fudge it.
Well to be perfectly honest the biggest problem with drilling is in the chuck and the bearings being true. You have runout on the head that will cause things to be out of round, no matter how precise or accurate the tooling you put on there it will always have a baseline slop factor.
i.e. my chuck has .5mm runout, I put a 1mm drill bit in that chuck with a 0.05mm runout. My hole size that it will drill is going to be somewhere around 1.55mm.
Add on top of that the method and procedures that you employ can make that hole grow larger even still. Keep in mind to these figures maybe somewhat exaggerated (lets hope so anyways) but you get the idea.
The big set I posted is a 115 count that does 1/16" to 1/2" in increments of 1/64", A to Z, #1 to #60.
Also worth noting doing something super super precise requires a metal lathe and no wood lathe will come close to that level of accuracy.
i.e. my chuck has .5mm runout, I put a 1mm drill bit in that chuck with a 0.05mm runout. My hole size that it will drill is going to be somewhere around 1.55mm.
Add on top of that the method and procedures that you employ can make that hole grow larger even still. Keep in mind to these figures maybe somewhat exaggerated (lets hope so anyways) but you get the idea.
The big set I posted is a 115 count that does 1/16" to 1/2" in increments of 1/64", A to Z, #1 to #60.
Also worth noting doing something super super precise requires a metal lathe and no wood lathe will come close to that level of accuracy.
wm460
Grand Master
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wm460
Grand Master
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- Mark
I have seen sets from 1 mm to 13mm made in Aust by Sutton
wm460
Grand Master
- Joined
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- Mark
Just looked it 1 - 10 in .01mm increments
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/01527423/drill-set-m99-10mm-13mm-99-pce-stand
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/01527423/drill-set-m99-10mm-13mm-99-pce-stand
Penpal
Grand Master
You can question it as much as you like Peter. That will not alter the facts.
Poor fit is poor fit, no matter how you try to fudge it.
Hi Walter my reading and your saying dont match I interpreted your accent to say if its glued in different to how its drilled because of slop etc it will turn true as its turned was my thought ,no matter I now take it you referred to an out of round hole as most all holes are anyway when glued up turned and fitted restores the status quo:iknow: Thank goodness for strong glues.
Penpal
Grand Master
ED when I bought my Taiwanese bench drill I changed the bearings the shoddy chuck and fitted a 1 hp motor and a decent chuck it made the world of difference and I agree 100% about lathe differences between wood ones and metal the scary thing is the premium placed on price making the best real value in a metal lathe IMHO. I must say the VL150 my last purchase is a ripper they Vicmarc are metal lathe oriented proof is in their accessories including chucks etc.
Peter.
Penpal
Grand Master
For my best results on the metal lathe I always drill undersize then bore the hole true to fit. This came about making my own mandrel savers.
Peter
Peter
Walter
Fellow
Yes, bit of a misunderstanding Peter, plus my reply might have seemed abrupt as I wrote it quickly on my way to bed.
I think Ed's point about the accuracy of the lathe and chuck and drill bit and the potential for a combination of small errors to result in a larger one is an impotant consideration.
Also, depending on a combination of factors you can end up with a hole larger at one end than the other anyway.
I still think measuring rather than relying on stated sizes is a better way of getting the best fit you can.
As for expanding glues filling the gap, well, a filled gap is still a gap, and if the tube is not centred in the blank you could end up with a finished product that has a much thinner wall on one side than the other. Round on the outside but weak if you see what I mean.
Walter
Fellow
Does any of this debate actually answer Paul's original question?
Obviously the correct sized drills bits in an accurate drilling set up will produce the best result.
Ed's suggested alternatives are very close:
But: most people, specially when starting out, don't have a full set of metric drills on 0.1 increments so the nearest in a standard set would be 12mm and 10mm.
Subject to all the issues discussed above this might be near enough to produce a satisfactory result. If it doesn't you have only lost a blank, you can turn the evidence away and start again.
Obviously the correct sized drills bits in an accurate drilling set up will produce the best result.
Ed's suggested alternatives are very close:
But: most people, specially when starting out, don't have a full set of metric drills on 0.1 increments so the nearest in a standard set would be 12mm and 10mm.
Subject to all the issues discussed above this might be near enough to produce a satisfactory result. If it doesn't you have only lost a blank, you can turn the evidence away and start again.