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Drilling blanks using lathe

silver

General dogsbody
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Eamonn.
Sounds like a plan Eamonn and I would be happy to participate.

The only problem I can see is, who would decide what is good practice? :nooidea:

The good practice is not elf an safty thing Init. It's a list of practices that are based on tried and tested ways, yes we should consider safety as that is very important to us all. But we all do things different ways as Ray has said, and I have learned something's along the way as well. Not everyone on here does it the same way and that's good for the forum.

So the more ways to do something from many forum members of doing the same thing will only help new members.

Sadly common sense seems to be very rare these days.

Ray
Unfortunately it can't be measured though can it..? :rolling:
 

Jim

Grand Master
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Oct 19, 2011
Posts
15,617
I know it can be irritating when the same advice is asked for again and again, but one good thing about repeat questions is that over time, techniques can change and just a little snippet of a new tip can make a lot of difference to the way some things are done. You just have to grin and bear it:thumbs:

Peter


Agree Peter, and i don't mind repeat questions, we are still a relatively new forum with new members joining each week either new to the game or very experienced turners. Repeat questions can be answered to our benefit, where a new member not here when last debated can add something worth while not mentioned before .. So let new questions of old topics run there course also, is what i say .. :thumbs:
 

silver

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HI guys looking for more help. I am not quite sure if I am doing something wrong.. I got my drill chuck from axminster this week and tried to use it to drill a blank. But when I got a 1/4" in seemed to grab the bit and pull the tail stock out.. I had the blank secured in the Chuck which is a supernova 2. Is it because I am not using pen jaws?

Thanks to all in advance

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk

Thanks for raising this valid subject once again Baldy.

As you can see it never ceases to amaze me how many different opinions come out and there are new ones and old ones that come out to help with your answers.

In short I believe that what you have been given is a few ideas to move forward and help you to see what the reasons are.

I hope that this has not dampened your thirst for asking questions as there is never a stupid one, there can only be stupid answers..:face:

But it would be interesting to know what you do and if you change anything from this point on how you drill your blanks.

Please let us know if any of the threads have been worthwhile..:thumbs:
 

Buckeye

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Peter
Sadly common sense seems to be very rare these days.

Ray

There is lots of common sense written on the forum, no matter what the subject. If someone said to do such and such this way and that way was dangerous someone would point it out.

It's like the Jacobs chuck on a MT in the tailstock, some people will hold the chuck as it enters and exits the piece I am one of that sorts, others swear blind it can take your fingers off. I think that if you are too limp wristed to hold the chuck securely and you lose a finger as a result then next time you will hold it securely or ask your wife to drill it for you:devil:

Peter
 

Neil Lawton

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The only reason I can think of to have to drill blanks on the lathe is that you do not have room for a pillar drill!
I've tried both, and one or the other way is not in anyway more accurate than the operator, and their set up capabilities, regardless of kit.
If Walter puts up a tutorial that works for him and you don't agree with it, put up your own! If any "dangerous" activities are shown, I'm sure that they will not be reproduced.
Common sense comes from consequences, people are now so isolated from these consequences, common sense no longer exists!
 

Buckeye

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Ok read all the posts so just one question ?


:rolling: WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO DRILL A PEN BLANK ON THE LATHE:rolling:

:whistling:Vic:whistling:

Obviously the way I do it:thumbs: I did try a pillar drill, but couldn't get on with it, with such a small quill movement, the lathe is far easier for me.

Peter
 

Baldy

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Graeme
thanks guys.. I have done the kiss test and running true. . This was the first thing I did when I set up the lathe as I have researched for weeks to make sure I at least have the first clue about getting set up right.. I have now more ideas about where I am going wrong. I did search but obviously didn't use quite the search terms. But thanks for the advice and sorry for opening the can of worms.... on the positive side. .. we must have enough worms for a good fishing trip.. [emoji12]
 

Neil

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Oh, missed this thread, just come back to my camper van at Her Majs Norfolk semi at the Sandringham Art, Sculpture and Craft Show. John Major and Norma showed up which was very pleasant to realise what a normal human being he is, no security, no fuss. had to undo his trouser belt as he bought a new belt from a mate who is a leather worker. many sniggers from fellow exhibitors! Now call the leather worker Edwina as her claim to fame is that she has undone John Majors belt.

Then switched on the iPad and found that I had missed this thread. Oh bother. I used to have an opinion but I'm blowed if I can find it!
 

Vic Perrin

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Oh, missed this thread, just come back to my camper van at Her Majs Norfolk semi at the Sandringham Art, Sculpture and Craft Show. John Major and Norma showed up which was very pleasant to realise what a normal human being he is, no security, no fuss. had to undo his trouser belt as he bought a new belt from a mate who is a leather worker. many sniggers from fellow exhibitors! Now call the leather worker Edwina as her claim to fame is that she has undone John Majors belt.

Then switched on the iPad and found that I had missed this thread. Oh bother. I used to have an opinion but I'm blowed if I can find it!

The best way of all to drill pen blanks without doubt is to talk to Neil ! He sent me a load of them all pre drilled and ready to go!

:thumbs:Vic:thumbs:
 

Lons

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Wow - 54 posts:wink:Well I for one don't mind repeats.

I have a very good Medings pillar drill and started down that route, even made a clamp to hold the blanks and it worked well. I have however switched entirely to drilling on the lathe, I don't have a drawbar and I don't have a problem. Oh and I do hold the chuck with my left hand. I don't see the safety problem, just hold it behind the serrated geared part and let go if it comes loose - it won't fall off 'cos the tailstock will still be far enough forward to support it.

I Fit the blank into the chuck but dont tighten it, slide the drill bit to touch my centre mark on the blank and tighten up which ensures it runs true and off we go. I drill at second lowest speed for all except corian which I drill at slowest and I withdraw the bit every 25mm or so. I drill right through, never had a blow out and very rarely even slightly off centre. If I'm doing a batch of blanks, I sometimes put a 7mm drill through and then enlarge with the correct size, but only if difficult material and the 7mm is already in the chuck otherwise not.
I did also experiment with starting the hole with a centre drill first but made little difference and I couldn't be a***d.

Works for me but there ya go, waiting to be shot down in flames.:whistling:
 

Woody

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Wow - 54 posts:wink:Well I for one don't mind repeats.

I have a very good Medings pillar drill and started down that route, even made a clamp to hold the blanks and it worked well. I have however switched entirely to drilling on the lathe, I don't have a drawbar and I don't have a problem. Oh and I do hold the chuck with my left hand. I don't see the safety problem, just hold it behind the serrated geared part and let go if it comes loose - it won't fall off 'cos the tailstock will still be far enough forward to support it.

I Fit the blank into the chuck but dont tighten it, slide the drill bit to touch my centre mark on the blank and tighten up which ensures it runs true and off we go. I drill at second lowest speed for all except corian which I drill at slowest and I withdraw the bit every 25mm or so. I drill right through, never had a blow out and very rarely even slightly off centre. If I'm doing a batch of blanks, I sometimes put a 7mm drill through and then enlarge with the correct size, but only if difficult material and the 7mm is already in the chuck otherwise not.
I did also experiment with starting the hole with a centre drill first but made little difference and I couldn't be a***d.

Works for me but there ya go, waiting to be shot down in flames.:whistling:

My story is just the same as yours Bob I drilled on a pillar drill with no problem for years it wasn't till I had to sell up then restart that I started drilling on the lathe in exactly the same way you do Bob because I never had a pillar drill now I have one but still drill on the lathe
 

rayf6604

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the reason i started drilling on the lathe was cost. i had already spent a load on my equipment that the extra £150 or so i needed to get the pillar drill was a step too far. So already having an accurate method of drilling it seemed the sensible way to go. i have to say though that when i drilled a 15mm hole for an empress pen (inlace acrylester as well, really brittle) i wished i had a pillar drill as i found that the drill bit had a tendancy to grab at the blank and i was worried it might break the blank. maybe it wouldn't have made any difference whether the bkank was spinning or the drill bit was spinning. i did drill the hole in stages so as not to put too much stress on the blank.

Of course it goes without saying a bloke can never have enough machines (mmmmm machines) that i so want a pillar drill. :devil: :whistling: :funny:
 

Walter

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I have a very good Medings pillar drill and started down that route, even made a clamp to hold the blanks and it worked well. I have however switched entirely to drilling on the lathe, I don't have a drawbar and I don't have a problem. Oh and I do hold the chuck with my left hand. I don't see the safety problem, just hold it behind the serrated geared part and let go if it comes loose - it won't fall off 'cos the tailstock will still be far enough forward to support it.

The biggest safety problem arises if the drill bit jams in the work and the tailstock is then withdrawn far enough for centrifugal force to snap the drill bit and hurl the chuck off the lathe. Working in the way you describe that isn't going to happen so the worst that will happen is that you will have too tight a grip on the chuck or not let go quickly enough and maybe get a fairly minor abrasion injury to your hand or possibly a twisted wrist. I am sure that you and the others who like to hold on to the chuck are sensible enough not to let that happen.

However, in my opinion, holding onto the chuck whilst drilling serves no purpose and here is why I believe this.

If the Morse taper is properly seated in the tailstock I can neither turn it by hand nor pull it out. Thus the friction between the chuck and tailstock is greater than the torque I can apply by hand. If the bit jams and starts to turn the chuck then the torque applied by the lathe turning the jammed bit must be greater than the friction between the chuck and tailstock. It therefore necessarily follows that the torque applied by the lathe is also greater than the torque I can apply by hand. Thus me holding on to the chuck is not going to stop it from turning. So although the risk of injury is minor and avoidable by an experienced turner, I do not recommend holding on to the chuck whilst drilling to beginners.

Once drilling has stopped and the bit is being withdrawn either to clear the flutes or at the end of the job and the lathe is still running, holding the chuck lightly once the bit is disengaged from cutting in case it catches in the hole and is pulled out of the tailstock is in my opinion perfectly safe and sensible.

Fitting a drawbar, as suggested by Eamon would make holding onto the chuck whist withdrawing the bit unnecessary too.
 
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