Finishes for wooden pens

[Bill Mooney]

I agree with Walter's sentiments in this thread. Over the years of taking the same journey as Walter Ive arrived at the same place. Melamine applied using Phil's method works very well & gives a pleasing satin finish. For a glossy finish I use acrylic lacquer followed by buffing using Farecla 300/500 cream. I find using melamine & acrylics straight forward to with hardly any taboos that are attached to ca except normal ppe, good ventilation & a warm application of the lacquer, be this a warm work area or standing the lacquer in warm water for a few minutes or using a hair drier to create a warm area around the blank. I can still spray successfully in the winter without any problems.
Having said this, this is just my method as each of you will have your own but if we can learn just one thing from this thread to improve our finishing then it's been worth it.

 

[Walter]

Many years ago Walter made me a pen in exchange for some azobe that I sent him. Its been through the washing machine 3 times now (so any finish is long gone!!) and the wood is still as smooth as if it had a finish, I still use it every day and whilst the mechanism might be a bit stiff it still writes like it should.

PG

Glad to hear it is still going strong Pierre.

 

[yorkshireman]

I've not tried lacquer yet, it's on my to-do list. What I tend to use is Woodturners Finish. It's water based so dries in about 30 seconds in warm weather. I put about 6 coats on then cut back with eee cream before an application of Shellawax or microwhatsit polish. Yes the polish will wear off eventually but it's got the wtf underneath so still looks good.

 

[Dalboy]

I started off using CA and soon changed when it kept effecting me like many I changed to acrylic gloss spray and not had any problems.

There is a reason Acrylic and Melamine lacquers are called finishes. It is because they are finishes not adhesives. Acrylic lacquer is what I use nowadays. Gloss or Satin depending on the desired result. You can try to be clever and wipe it on on the lathe, but I prefer to take the barrel(s) off the lathe and spray them. A lathe is a tool not a constraint. You are allowed to take things off the lathe to finish them. The woodturning police will not come and lock you up for not finishing on the lathe. Leave it to dry (preferably overnight) before putting the barrel(s) back on the lathe and buffing with Farecla or Burnishing cream.

And just when you thought it was safe Walter

 

[Walter]

I've not tried lacquer yet, it's on my to-do list. What I tend to use is Woodturners Finish. It's water based so dries in about 30 seconds in warm weather. I put about 6 coats on then cut back with eee cream before an application of Shellawax or microwhatsit polish. Yes the polish will wear off eventually but it's got the wtf underneath so still looks good.

Thanks for that interesting idea Keith. I hadn't thought of using WTF for pens because although it dries quickly it has a long cure time "Light use (7-10 days), Regular use (21 days) under ideal conditions (70 degrees and 70% humidity)" according to the General Finishes website.

I guess if you can live with the cure times the final finish should be pretty robust.

 

[Walter]

And just when you thought it was safe Walter

Oh no!! Inspector Lane of the Woodturning Police has rumbled me.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

I am thinking of making some videos and setting up a YouTube channel but the problem is finding the time. It may happen but don't hold your breath.

If you do Walter I look forward to seeing them

Whoa - hang on, hang on Ken. I'm not sure if you have any experience of ebony so far, but its one of those woods that, speaking for myself, I would not be applying any sort of finish to it at all. It's incredibly dense and takes on a beautiful, extremely high sheen just from fine sanding and buffing, and in fact its difficult to get a finish to actually stick to it sometimes. The purpose of a finish is to enhance appearance and protect the wood - ebony needs neither.

With respect to Walters opening statement, perhaps there should also be a category discussing the non-use of finishes. It's tempting to think, especially if someone is just starting out, that you've got to apply a finish because that's what you're supposed to do. In fact, sometimes it's completely un-necessary, and sometimes it is actually detrimental, as it would be on ebony in my opinion.

If you haven't turned ebony before, keep the speed and the heat down when you're sanding by the way - it's very susceptible to heat cracks.

I have made about ten ebony pens Phil, It is incredibly gritty wood, by that I mean hard. I had no trouble turning them apart that they were hard on the chisels due to their hardness.
I sanded them down from 240 grit then switching to 400 to 2000 wet n dry, used dry.
Your right about the finish though I used friction polish (grin). I will not use that next time.
As to non finishes, yes that would help me as after 18months I know I am still bumbling about trying this n that.
The lathe I had at the time was quite slow and I did not have any problems, but it’s good to know as my new lathe can go faster.

We're all different Phil and I'm not of the same opinion. I found that a very thin coat of noncrystalline wax enhances and helps prevent finger marks. It certainly comes up like glass if enough care is taken.
Something ken should be aware of is the fine dust can be very irritating and isn't at all nice.

I have been got at by the wife for the dust problem, I have just got myself a 3m full mask. Dare say I will look like an alien in it, (some say I already look like an alien lol)

To end my monster answer, there is so much info here from you guys that I find interesting like Shellawax or microwhatsit polish and other. Be good to see a list of all these finishes. I would do it myself but as I don’t have a clue it would not be of much use.

 

[Walter]

Be good to see a list of all these finishes. I would do it myself but as I don’t have a clue it would not be of much use.

I did one ages ago, it is in the tutorials (see link). It needs updating with more recent products e.g. Yorkshire Shit and Hampshire Green

http://www.penturners.co.uk/misc/pdf/Tips/Pen_Finishes.pdf

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Thanks Walter

 

[Phil Dart]

We're all different Phil and I'm not of the same opinion. I found that a very thin coat of noncrystalline wax enhances and helps prevent finger marks. It certainly comes up like glass if enough care is taken.

I think we're agreeing in fact Bob. It's just that I don't class a wax top coat as a finish - it's only a showroom shine that will wear off quite quickly and is no more or less than many makers will put over the top of a chemical finish to boost it and keep the fingerprints off for a short while. I'm saying that diligently prepared ebony does not require a chemical finish, but you're right - any type of wax will definitely help it shine in the short term.

 

[TK woodman]

It sounds like French polishers have been using the wrong finish from the beginning of time then?

 

[Walter]

It sounds like French polishers have been using the wrong finish from the beginning of time then?

Not at all Tony. French polish is a fine finish for furniture. It stands up well to knocks etc.but is not resistant to heat or liquids which is why most modern furniture is finished with acrylic lacquer.

The lack of moisture resistance is what makes shellac unsuitable for pens. Perspiration and oil from the hands soon removes it or dulls the shine.

 

[Penpal]

Likewise Melamine is not waterproof, has some pretty tough ingredients requiring great care, looking into every single finish scientifically there are pros and cons. I imagine living in 24 inches of snow in the USA recently, then our high 30,s here and even higher in South Africa.

Each product has to have a legal statement of just what are the main ingredients, to me thats the bottom line.

Peter.

 

[Phil Dart]

It sounds like French polishers have been using the wrong finish from the beginning of time then?

Since the beginning or furniture making, the best finishes available at the time have been used. If modern finishes and synthetic glues had been available, would Mr Chippendale have employed them? I believe he probably would have, yes. Would JS Bach have composed for the piano instead of the harpsichord? Would the canals have been built if the train or the lorry had already been invented? The problem is that by definition, traditions are born in the past, therefore the perception is that the best furniture is french polished. There are better finishes available today.

Likewise Melamine is not waterproof

I'm not sure where you got that from Peter - it even says it is on the tin. I've just had a look. It also says not suitable for exterior use, so I have no doubt it would suffer if you stood it outside in a rainstorm for a week, but I don't believe that's something we need to mitigate for as penturners.

 

[silver]

I remember a experienced turner saying to me " its not what you put on the wood, its what you polish the wood with, remember you are polishing the wood not making the polish shine"

What I would love to see is some videos (not just text descriptions) of applying the melamine and the Acrylic finishes specifically for pen finishing. I know that there are finishing videos for general use, but pen turners tend to use the finishes slightly differently.

I agree, but as Walter said it takes up allot of time and rarely has any monetary returns so its a thankless task so there is not allot of incentive for anyone to make videos on how to finish pens.

What I tend to use is Woodturners Finish.

Another new one for me as I had never thought of trying it.

this is just my method as each of you will have your own but if we can learn just one thing from this thread to improve our finishing then it's been worth it.

We're all different Phil and I'm not of the same opinion.

As Bill and Bob say, and I think between the threads that is that we are all different and what works for one may not work for another. Even though technically it should work.

There are as many ways to put CA on to a pen as there are pen turners, so I can guarantee there will many more ways of finishing pens as well.

What I have done over the years is stick to the method that I get best results and works every time, which is CA and a microcrystalline polish. I have been trialling the dipping method that Les always uses and that is just trying something different than CA due to the recent issues I have personally experienced with using the stuff.

I agree here is no advice to new pen turners in what type of material to use when finishing pens, however there have been lots of discussions on this forum many times and searching them will help you develop your skills.

But for experienced pen turners if it works for you then stick to what you know best. "if it aint broke then don't fix it"

I think what is needed in the forum is a library that we can all refer too for that guided hand.

But remember !!!!!

"If you always do what you have always done then you will always get what you have always got"

​

Happy Turning..

 

[Penpal]

Since the beginning or furniture making, the best finishes available at the time have been used. If modern finishes and synthetic glues had been available, would Mr Chippendale have employed them? I believe he probably would have, yes. Would JS Bach have composed for the piano instead of the harpsichord? Would the canals have been built if the train or the lorry had already been invented? The problem is that by definition, traditions are born in the past, therefore the perception is that the best furniture is french polished. There are better finishes available today.


I'm not sure where you got that from Peter - it even says it is on the tin. I've just had a look. It also says not suitable for exterior use, so I have no doubt it would suffer if you stood it outside in a rainstorm for a week, but I don't believe that's something we need to mitigate for as penturners.

Sorry mate it is just as valid as french polishing suffers from moisture I would have thought the moisture etc from peoples hand use of pens would extend to the need for a surface not subject to moisture along the lines of many other finishes. I note you selected this comment from the one about the product has some nasties in it for the person applying it, both are important.

I have not got a horse in this race merely seeking to expose each product as fairly and evenly as one another.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[Neil Lawton]

I can't believe that burnishing with the shavings hasn't been mentioned, or did I miss it?
It can make a big difference regardless of final finish.

 

[yorkshireman]

I can't believe that burnishing with the shavings hasn't been mentioned, or did I miss it?
It can make a big difference regardless of final finish.

Agreed Neil. It's something I do without thinking about it

 

[Phil Dart]

I note you selected this comment from the one about the product has some nasties in it for the person applying it, both are important

That's right. That's because I agree with you about the second point but not the first one.

 

[Penpal]

That's right. That's because I agree with you about the second point but not the first one.

I wanted to call you but seeing as its around 9pm in the UK not a good time to call . Thanks for your reply.

Peter.