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Making thin 'veneer' slices accurately, and Pen Boxes

MrJoshua

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Jim
Yeah, you can only polish a turd so much!!

That would make sense yeah, or I could add a little block underneath it a bit like this to change from two clamp points to one on the handle end, and with a curve that would allow angling it to suit.

7479A6F2-11F4-4396-9A43-8284B07AAC2D_zpsn5fyi5ub.jpg



Sorry chaps as well as I just saw two posts higher up about the model and the blade, didn't see them before sorry!
 

Lons

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Don't know if we're at cross purposes Jim. The fence I mean is a vertical sub fence to solve your blade deviation problem.
 

Grump

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Your guides are still to far back, bring them forward to immediately behind the teeth and close them to a fag paper gap.
 

MrJoshua

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Yeah I know what you're describing I think, i.e. a 'fake' fence on the front of the actual one, which is shimmed at one end to suit the angle required.

I'm just saying this is an alternative where I wouldn't need to do that, ie make a little curved block that would force the fence to use that as the clamp point instead of the two at the sides on that end. It'd then be free to rotate to an angle about that point, if you see what I mean.

It's just two different ways of solving the problem that's all.

And to answer the question Woody asked on the previous page that I somehow missed, no, it hasn't cut any curves with this blade. The previous blade had been twisted round all sorts of stupid radii(sp?) but I've only used this new blade a few times and straight each time.
It does go through hardwoods ok though so no issue there as I think Neil mentioned it might struggle with.

Obviously it's a case of you get what you pay for with these things, as with just about anything, but there's usually ways like this to work around their known shortcomings at least to a certain extent.
I'll never be able to justify the money for a really decent bandsaw, and even then I'm sure even expensive ones have their own issues still.

Like my horrible Ferm table saw. The cast metal table itself, full of grooves etc is horrible compared to the lovely smooth steel ones I see in all the videos, and tiny really so some jobs I want to do with it are difficult or not possible, but it cost me £30, and it works. I already took it apart and shimmed it straight where it wasn't, which gave a huge improvement as the blade wasn't square to all the alignment lines on the table. It's crap, but it's better than no table saw. Just.:fingers:
 

MrJoshua

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Your guides are still to far back, bring them forward to immediately behind the teeth and close them to a fag paper gap.

Good point actually, thanks. I'm sure I did have it correct initially but I must have meddled with something else that affected it and forgot to tweak those. They'll want a washer or two behind each bearing.
The clearance is good though how it is, i.e. almost nothing, like a fag paper.
 

MrJoshua

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'Should be' being the operative phrase here but it no longer is. Due to the way I ad to fabricate the bearing mod, I can't just do that now, or more precisely I can, but I have to be careful the thrust bearing will be hit by the back of the blade before the centre of the bearing bracket. So if I just move it forwards like that then the blade would never get to the thrust bearing hence having to add washers. Won't be a problem now though since I've sorted it.

Also added a smidge of tension, and checked the lower bearings etc - tried again. It's made a gnat's something or other difference really - maybe a mm less than it was out by, so still a lot of twist going on.

So. I fashioned a thin bit of oak to 'clip' onto the fence clamp, and gave it a small central radius to rotate the fence about, within reason:

4A18AC3A-D91D-46C3-8941-A9AA36F10B26_zpsgxwahajr.jpg


Clamped it on, and it worked perfectly! The fence now sits at the required angle that I'd marked. Also, it sits flat, and is capable of wobbling if you try, but nothing like it was previously. Ace!

So I did a test cut on a bit more of said oak, and on a 9cm piece it was 0.2mm thicker at one end that the other, so 1.4mm to 1.6mm over 90mm length. Not a bad starting point to be honest. I think a tiny bit of tweaking and I'll have it just about spot on, so when I get it to that, I'll cut a load of strips of stuff to use like this, before I end up moving the fence again. I'd scribe some guide lines onto the table but it'd be a waste as the next blade will be different I'm sure, so pencil marks will do for now.

Quite pleased with that though actually - might just have solved the first question I asked on this topic. :fingers:

19091A05-ACB3-4506-82C5-DAFD87A55F37_zpsylqdrzus.jpg


Needs a slight sand to smooth one side of it then it'll be about the perfect thickness.
 

TK woodman

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You will need to move your bottom guides up from inside to the underside of the table. This gives less distance between the top and bottom guides and stops it drifting.
 

MrJoshua

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I think there's a reason that was going to be difficult to do but I'll check in the morning since I've forgotten offhand.
 

TK woodman

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I think there's a reason that was going to be difficult to do but I'll check in the morning since I've forgotten offhand.

you will have to make a bracket and cut a slot in the door but you will have a usable saw afterwards - it's well worth a go
 

Jimjam66

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There is another way to cure drift in the blade, assuming you have a blade that won't distort top-to-bottom in the cut: clamp a second fence the other side of the blade so that the gap is just enough for the wood to squeeze through between the two fences. Then as you feed the wood through it can't deviate. Of course with each cut you have to move your second fence in, but it saves faffing with drift angles and such. Often used for resawing on bigger machines.

The second fence can just be a 'point' e.g. the corner of a block clamped to the table - just make sure to aim the corner directly at the blade.
 

MrJoshua

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Thanks David,

Surely if the blade is the problem then one fence or two, unless they match the angle of the drift the blade will cut through the workpiece at the wrong angle?

I must be misunderstanding it.

Anyway, here's the bottom rollers. Might be able to invert the mounts to move them closer perhaps:
4BC330CC-395D-4BA3-940B-9FA018CA89C4_zpsm39ig2rd.jpg
 

Grump

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You have just jogged my memory young David.
When I first lost the feeling in my hand I couldn't guide the wood accurately so I screwed a bearing to a block of wood and clamped it parallel to the blade.
Perfect cuts every time init?
 

Dalboy

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When you all track your blades in what position is the blade on the wheels. I am asking this before I go into what I do.
 

Lons

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Derek just beat me to it. My blade runs on the crown of the wheel whereas yours looks further forward to me. what does your handbook say?
 

Lons

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You have just jogged my memory young David.
When I first lost the feeling in my hand I couldn't guide the wood accurately so I screwed a bearing to a block of wood and clamped it parallel to the blade.
Perfect cuts every time init?

Here's one I found on the net months ago which looked easy to make. It's still on my to do list as it seems worth a go.
 

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Grump

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Here's one I found on the net months ago which looked easy to make. It's still on my to do list as it seems worth a go.

Yep that's all I did but used a roller bearing cos I hadn't seen it done before and needed a means to an end.
It helped me keep the wood flowing through nice and straight for a one handed operation, worked well at the time.
I still have it somewhere in the event I need to use it again I would just spend 3 or 4 days looking for it, quicker to make another init?
 

MrJoshua

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Top wheel has the belt on the crown, and the bottom wheel it's closer to the edge. Seems to run happily like that and I've thought about adjusting the motor forward or the top wheel to get it on the crown of both, but not sure if it would help or not.

I don't have a manual for it I don't think.
 

kjmc1957

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Jul 29, 2013
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I can't answer the first question but if you go to You Tube and put in Timberbits you will find a series of videos on box making
 
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